Clos des Papes

Clos des Papes is one of the great established names of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with the family living in the village for centuries and also being among the people who created the appellation for the village, the first in France to do so. Currently run by Paul-Vincent Avril who is also the winemaker, he attended wine school in Burgundy in the 1980’s, and after also working abroad including a stint at Mount Mary with Dr John Middleton, he returned home to work with his father in 1988. Since then he has succeeded to make what many regard as the best single example of the appellation producing just one red wine and one white wine. No special cuvees are produced and no grapes bought and no grapes or must are sold, simply 2 outstanding wines from both colours both containing all the varieties that the appellation approves. Clos des Papes is not only regarded as the benchmark producer of the appellation but is also frequently recognised as being one of the leading estates of all France.

The property has today 40 ha, of which 3 ha is planted to white varieties with 30 different parcels spread around the village. A parcel is nearby the pope's castle and has been surrounded by walls (clos). From here came the name of the domain. For the red Chateauneuf, Clos des Papes has planted about 65% Grenache, 20% of Mourvedre, 10% Syrah with about 5% being a mix of all the other permitted varieties. Clos des Papes is one of the few estates to use all permitted varieties for both red and white Chateauneuf. They are well-known for producing one of the most authentic and long-lived examples of the appellation having started estate bottling in 1896. The white Chateauneuf-du-Pape also ages extremely well providing great drinking pleasure for 20 years or more. It is made from almost equal percentages of all the six permitted white varieties which are co-fermented in two separate ferments, one for early ripening varieties and the second for the late ripening varieties. Yields are kept very low, frequently about a half or a third of what the appellation permits. These wines are very limited and always in high demand.

“Tasting in the cellar at Clos des Papes with Paul-Vincent Avril is an experience not to be missed, as he drops wine-making facts and philosophical nuggets into every discussion. With the focus on crafting only a single cuvée of red and white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a visitor inevitably misses out on many of the decisions that led to the blending of any given foudre's contents, but it is easier to see a picture of the overall vintage, at least as seen through the lens of Avril's wine-making. Grenache yields in 2017 were approximately 15 hectoliters per hectare, versus 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2016, so there is much less wine, and the 2017 Clos des Papes will have a higher proportion of Mourvèdre as a result. Fortunately, the quality of the Mourvèdre was exceptional in 2017, Avril says. As readers seem to always demand updates at ten-year intervals, I asked Avril about his 2008. It's one of the wines of the vintage and remains delicious to this day. Without prompting, he also opened the 2003 (not overdone at all and still drinking well) and the 2000 (still yummy and in no danger of tipping over). "I like the wines between 15 and 20 years," Avril says. Sounds like good advice to me, although I find them wonderfully drinkable all throughout their roughly two-decade lifespan.” The Wine Advocate, September 2018.

The white wines of Clos des Papes are well documented for their superb ageing capacity with the wines going through various phases of development over 20 or more years. In the first year or two the wine shows primary fruit with notable pear aromas with lovely floral lift. After the primary fruit has settled the wine becomes more mineral and restrained with aromas closer to an Alsace Riesling from three to eight years of age. Then the third stage of development brings notes of grilled nuts and honey bringing the wine closer to a mature Meursault in character. All of this achieved without oak maturation and no malo, simply having the right blend of varieties that bring freshness and also body to these superbly complex and satisfying white wines.

Serving advice from Paul Vincent Avril (proprietor + winemaker): Our wines should be served at a temperature of 14-15°.
You can decant them but it is not necessary to do so 2 hours before because it is always interesting to appreciate the evolution in the glass.

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc - SOLD OUT
Made from roughly equal quantities of all 6 permitted white varieties, Grenache blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Roussanne, Picpoul and Picardin fermented cool and kept on lees for 5 months, no malolactic. These whites have not only amazing richness and depth, but also fabulous acidity and structure enabling them to age effortlessly for 20+ years. In youth the wines show primary characters of pear skin and orchard fruit, and after nearly 2 years the primary fruit makes way for more minerality and structure giving characters resembling Riesling. With further ageing notes of grilled nuts and honey start to appear and with each vintage the evolution naturally happens at its own pace giving wines of remarkably different character as they age.
”The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape Blanc is the usual blend of all the permitted varieties. It shows the richer, layered, opulent style of the vintage beautifully, with loads of pear, acacia flower, citrus oil, and spice notes all defining the aromatics, and it's full-bodied, with a layered, opulent texture and a great finish.” 97 points, Jeb Dunnuck, October 2023

2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge
Spring frosts on 8th April reduced the crop by about 40% in this vintage, and it was the Syrah which was most affected so the percentages this year change a little to 50% Grenache, 40% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah with a splash of other varieties. 100% destemmed and natural yeast fermented over several weeks. Matured in large oak casks for 12-15 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
”Very different from the 2022 vintage, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes is deeper and more powerful. It reveals delicate aromas of flowers, iris, lilac and spices, intertwined with lovely peppery notes. Full-bodied, concentrated and dense, it displays the estate’s characteristic tension but with perfectly controlled power that brings a richer, solid core of fruit. The finish is long, ethereal and peppery, complemented by velvety tannins that promise graceful aging. It has a real potential to improve in the cellar.” 96 points, The Wine Advocate, November 2024
”Elegant and approachable, this stunning red offers seductive aromatics of smoked incense and red tea, with floral high notes, followed by a well of cassis, licorice and red currant flavors coated in graphite. Dusty in feel, with fine-grained tannins bringing structure and textural complexity, while an iron element lingers on the very long finish. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2035.” 96 points, Wine Spectator, January 2024
”One of the standouts in the vintage is the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape, a ripe, round, medium to full-bodied 2021 offering a beautiful array of black cherry and darker berry fruits, ample Provençal spice, and dried flower nuances. Wonderfully textured and balanced, with ripe tannins, as usual, Vincent has made one of the wines of the vintage. This will evolve gracefully for 15+ years.” 95 points, Jeb Dunnuck, October 2023

2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge - last few magnums
50% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah with a splash of other varieties. 100% destemmed and natural yeast fermented over several weeks. Matured in large oak casks for 12-15 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
”Proprietor Paul-Vincent Avril expects to bottle 100,000 bottles of something approximating this "final blend," tasted out of foudre. A blend of 55% Grenache, 35% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah and other permitted varieties, the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape looked exceptional on this day, offering up scents of framboise and kirsch alongside dried flowers and Asian spices. Full-bodied yet weightless, silky and long, this is special stuff, complex and balanced.” (96-98) points, The Wine Advocate, May 2022
”Beguiling, with a plume of black tea and incense leading off, followed by black cherry reduction, cassis, melted black licorice, warm earth, singed tobacco and garrigue accents. Offers breadth and depth with a seamless feel, capped by a subtle mineral edge that lingers lengthily amid the beautiful fruit. Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Best from 2024 through 2040. 8,000 cases made.” 97 points, James Molesworth, Wine Spectator, January 2023

The following wines to be released in Australia May 2025

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc - due May 2025
The Clos des Papes white 2023 is quite floral, but still also has citrus notes, more specifically grapefruit, and a touch of anise. It also has salinity. It is a wine that you can enjoy young on these aromas or age in the same way as the reds, knowing that it will go through different stages of evolution. Namely, minerality, dried fruits, honey, and roasted almonds. As you know, there is always a one-year lag between reds and whites, because whites are not aged in wood, because we want to keep a certain freshness and minerality. They are aged on fine lees until February before being bottled. We remind you that it is recommended to consume the whites at 12°C, not to put them in ice, you can also decant them.
Paul-Vincent Avril (winemaker/owner)
"Crafted from six permitted varieties in equal proportions, co-fermented and cold-settled for one night, the 2023 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc from Clos des Papes exhales a delicate, complex bouquet of fennel, verbena, pear, iodine, herbs and acacia blossoms. Medium to full-bodied, pure and seamless, it's built around bright acids, a layered, lovely structured texture and a long, ethereal, saline finish. The phenolic aftertaste adds a racy profile that I find particularly appealing.” 95 points, The Wine Advocate, September 2024
”A creamy, well-rounded yet lively and citrusy white. It shows notes of fresh lemons, grapefruit, dried herbs, fennel and mild spices. It's medium- to full-bodied. Plenty of volume on the ample palate, harmonious and poised. There is so much texture on the mid-palate with a caressing touch at the edge. Round and aromatic with a fresh, citrusy finish. Drink or hold.” 95 points, Jamessuckling.com, April 2024

2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge - due May 2025
Crop reduced by hail in 2022 growing season resulting in losses around 40% of the volume (after losses in recent vintages of -40% in 2017 to coulure bad flowering, -70% in 2018 due to mildew, 2021 down nearly -40% due to frost).
The Clos des Papes red 2022 that we offer you this year is an elegant wine, with a very silky structure and a beautiful persistence, so a well-balanced wine. As is often the case, it has characteristics of red fruits (cherries, raspberries) but also of black fruits (blackcurrants, blackberries). We can also note a spicy character (Mourvèdre).  Despite the hail, the percentages did not change because it affected them in the same way, i.e., 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin and Cinsault. It is certainly a wine for laying down, as it has a very nice freshness. As this wine is not filtered, a very slight deposit may appear on certain vintages. Just take your bottle out of the cellar a little earlier and decant it. Our wines are to be served at a temperature of 14-15°. It is good to decant them but it is not necessary to do it more than 2 hours before because it is always interesting to appreciate the evolution in the glass. Paul-Vincent Avril (winemaker/owner)
"The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is a richly concentrated effort, dark-fruited and loaded with black cherries and blackberries, yet it's not without nuance, as it includes hints of asphalt, truffle and dried spices. Full-bodied (15.4% alcohol), deep and velvety, with a long, softly dusty finish, it looks to be a real beauty, capable of aging up to two decades.” (97-99) points, The Wine Advocate, September 2023
”The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape reminds me of the 2007 with its incredible sexiness and seamless, elegant texture. Black cherry liqueur, Provençal herbs, flowers, and licorice are just some of its nuances, and it's full-bodied, with a layered mouthfeel, gorgeous tannins, and a great, great finish. Tasted from multiple foudre, this is unquestionably up with the finest in the vintage, and as I’ve written in the past, it’s almost impossible to have too much Clos des Papes in the cellar!” (97-99) points, Jeb Dunnuck, October 2023

extremely limited quantities of wines with a little age released from the deep cool underground cellar of Clos des Papes from time to time

2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge - very limited estate release
”Another perfect wine from this brilliant estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which matches the otherworldly 2007. A classic blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah brought up all in old foudre, this beauty's deep purple color is followed by a mammoth bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black currants, blueberries, Asian spices, and garrigue. Full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, it nevertheless is as graceful as a ballerina on the palate and has ultra-fine tannins, a silky, seamless texture, and a finish that just won't quit. Hats off to vigneron Paul-Vincent Avril!” 100 points, Jeb Dunnuck, August 2018
"The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is full-bodied but balanced, with plenty of richness and concentration but also a certain paradoxical lightness. It offers complex garrigue and anise notes, a blend of cherry and raspberry fruit, a silky texture and a long finish that shows no sign of the wine's 15.8% alcohol. For technocrats, the wine's pH is 3.7, which is sufficient acidity to maintain a fine sense of balance. This lovely wine should drink well for at least two decades. Together with the 2015 and the 2017, it will be a compelling trio of wines to follow over the years.”
97+ points, The Wine Advocate, September 2018

The following wines to be released in Australia in August 2025

2024 Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc - due August 2025
The Clos des Papes white 2024 is quite floral but, as is often the case, presents some aniseed notes. In the mouth we find a grapefruit side, minerality but also a very saline side. It's a wine that you can enjoy young on these aromas or age in the same way as the reds, knowing that it will go through different stages of evolution. Namely, minerality, dried fruits, honey, and toasted almonds. As you know, there is always a year's difference between the reds and the whites, because the whites are not aged in wood, because we want to maintain a certain freshness and minerality. They are aged on fine lees until February before being bottled. We remind you that it is recommended to consume the whites at 12°C, not to put them in ice, you can also decant them. Paul-Vincent Avril (winemaker/owner)

2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape rouge - due August 2025
Looking at 2023, this is another solid vintage for the Southern Rhône, producing a bevy of ripe yet not excessive, pure, charming wines with loads to love. Compared to the sunny, exuberant 2022s, the 2023s are less marked by the sun and have slightly darker aromatics, medium to full-bodied richness, a soft, plump, elegant style, and beautiful overall balance. As with the 2022s, concentration is good but not great, yet the wines shine for their balanced, layered, seductive style. Jeb Dunnuck, October 2024
The Clos des Papes 2023 red is a very balanced vintage, both elegant and structured, the tannins are very mature and silky. This wine is long in the mouth, certainly a year of aging which is characterized by aromas of black fruits (blackcurrant, blackberry) but always also this spicy character that the Mourvèdre provides. The percentages are identical to the previous year, that is to say, 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, 5% Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin and Cinsault. It is certainly a wine to keep, because it has a very nice freshness. As this wine is not filtered, a very slight deposit may appear in certain vintages. Simply take your bottle out of the cellar a little earlier and decant it. Our wines should be served at a temperature of 14-15°. It is good to decant them but it is not necessary to do so more than 2 hours before because it is always interesting to appreciate the evolution in the glass. Paul-Vincent Avril (winemaker/owner)
”A beautiful looking barrel sample, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape is deep purple-hued with a classic 2023 profile of darker berry fruits, peppery garrigue, and spices. It's concentrated, medium to full-bodied, has a pure, layered, seamless profile, ripe tannins, and a great finish.” (95-97) points, Jeb Dunnuck, October 2024
”Checking in at 15.7% alcohol, the 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is totally sexy. Ripe lack fruits, cassis pastilles, licorice, garrigue and herbal elements are all pushed forward. Framed by smooth tannins, the full-bodied 2023 jumps at you right away. It mesmerizes with gorgeous purity of fruit, lifting freshness and ample resilience on the focused finale. I can’t wait to taste it from bottle.” (94-96) points, Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous Media, August 2024