Luneau-Papin

One of the leading domaines of the Nantais, Pierre Luneau-Papin, hails from a long line of vignerons. The Luneau family is well established in the region; their presence here may be traced as far back as the late 17th Century and Pierre Luneau is the thirteenth generation of his family to bear the name Pierre. Pierre and Monique, his wife, are the seventh generation of vignerons to run Domaine Luneau-Papin, which was founded by Pierre's forebears in the 18th Century.

Having studied at Briacé and gained experience with Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, both of the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, it is perhaps no surprise that Luneau-Papin is one of Muscadet's leading lights. In his immaculate winery, Pierre proceeds to vinify in small batches according to the origin of the fruit. The harvest is done by hand, also a rarity in the region, to avoid any oxidation before pressing. There is an immediate light débourbage (separation of juice from gross lees), then a 4-week fermentation at 20 degrees, followed by 6 months (or longer for some cuvées) of aging in stainless-steel vats on fine lees. This is the classic Muscadet-sur-lie process, where the wine is kept on its lees, with a fair amount of CO2 as protection, until bottling in the spring following the harvest. The only modern technique used here is macération pelliculaire (maceration of lightly crushed berries before pressing), which varies in proportion according to the cuvées.

The family estate now consists of approximately 40ha, with 38ha planted to Melon de Bourgogne located about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself. This is a landscape characterised by gently rolling vineyards and a remarkable variation of terroirs, which include micaschist, gneiss and schist and other rocks of volcanic origin, as well as the sandy soils that first spring to mind when thinking of the region. The vines have a good age, 45 years on average although some are well into their seventh decade. The wines produced at this estate are strikingly pure, with each cuvée expressing its unique soil-signature. They never fail to impress.

2022 Muscadet La Grange
From vines planted 1974 grown on mica-schist with a bedrock of schist in the village of Le Landreau. Hand harvested and aged on lees for 7 months. On the palate the wine is pure and well defined, complex and beautifully focused, with solid mid-palate depth, nice framing acids and very good length on the classy finish.
This cuvée, Pierre-Marie reliably informs me, is sourced from 12 hectares of vines planted in multiple parcels around the cellars in Landreau, the planting of which dates to 1974. The soils are micaschist and schist. It presents a nose of dried yellow peach, mirabelle and smoke. This is followed by a nicely polished style on the palate, being gently composed with a powdery phenolic backbone underneath a generous layer of white peach and apple, with modest but evident acidity, before it concludes with an appealingly bitter grip in the finish. Decent balance for the vintage. The alcohol on the label is 12%. 90/100  thewinedoctor.com Feb 2024

2020 Muscadet Sur Lie Terre de Pierre
Vines planted in 1974 on one of the highest and most exposed sites in Muscadet, La Butte de la Roche, in the village of Loroux-Bottereau. Here, the terroir is based on rare 500 million-year-old Serpentinite (pictured above). The juice is cold-settled then fermented with native yeasts and matured on lees for 17 months without racking.
‘The 2020 Terre de Pierre was crafted from vines planted in magmatic clay soils. Revealing aromas of acacia, honey, smoke, pear and white fruits, it’s moderately weighted with a tense and fleshy texture and a saline, mineral finish despite chalky grip and an austere palate. Give it a little time to digest its élevage, and it will offer excellent drinking.’ 91 points, Yohan Castaing, RobertParker.com, August 2023.
review for 2017 vintage “As any committed Muscadet fan will know, this is sourced from fairly aged vines, planted in 1974, on the serpentinite terroir of the Butte de la Roche. The aromatics are charming and correct, showing a smoky and salty style, certainly in a reductive vein, but with a pungent substance too. The palate, meanwhile, seems content to communicate primarily its sense of breadth and generosity right now, albeit cut with tension and a note of bitter citrus pith. Long, delightfully bitter and overall an attractive style. 95/100”  thewinedoctor.com Feb 2019

2014 Muscadet Excelsior Cru Communal Goulaine - SOLD OUT
From 80 year-old massale selection vines grown on schist and mica-schist at La Plécisière in the village of Chapelle-Heulin. The juice is cold-settled then fermented with native yeasts and matured on stirred lees for 36 months. Since 2011, Cru Communal is the new elite appellation in Muscadet. The wines must come from the designated terroir (in the case of Goulaine, schist) and spend a minimum of 17 months on lees. The finished wines are then tasted and certified by a regional panel before bottling. Serve as you would for a good white Burgundy.
‘Last tasted in late July 2016, around three months ahead of bottling, this leads with an intriguingly Chablis-like combination of struck flint, herbed chicken stock and fresh, seed-inflected lemon. A polished, sensationally savory midpalate suggests the introduction of mussel broth, leading to a long finish that awes with its diversity even as it tugs relentlessly at the salivary glands. Drink 2017-2028.’ (93-94) points, David Schildknecht, RobertParker.com, May 2017.