Champagne Gosset

Established since 1584, Gosset is one of the smallest Grande Marque Champagne producers. Whilst the champagnes that they produce have never been plentiful in quantity, they have distinguished themselves with the consistently superb quality throughout the entire range of champagnes produced. Remaining a family owned house, the Gosset family sold the business to the Cointreau family in 1994.

Starting with their flagship champagne, the superbly aged Grande Reserve multi-vintage, it is clear that they have sought to exceed all standards required by the region. Firstly, and most strikingly, the presentation is remarkable in heavy dark antique bottles that are unique to Gosset. Instead of aging this champagne for 3 years on lees before bottling, Gosset have aged this blend for four and half years. After bottling, this champagne is then aged a further 6 months in their cool cellars before they permit this champagne to be sold.

From the superbly smooth and well rounded flavours of the Grande Reserve to the elegance and perfume of the brilliant Grand Rose champagne to the incomparable Grand Millesime vintage it is clear that these champagnes have been conceived for the most demanding champagne enthusiast. Whilst the vintage champagnes are only released in the very best years, the cellaring capacity of Gosset champagnes in those select vintages is well documented. At Gosset malolactic fermentation is avoided to ensure sufficient acidity enabling a long evolution.

NV Extra Brut - NEW (on-premise only)
’This cuvée offers a subtle blend of aromatic precision and vinosity. It shows a complex and round character while being Extra-Brut. It has been designed for drinkers who love lively champagnes.’

Chardonnay 32%, Pinot Noir 45% and Pinot Meunier 23% from Cumières, Boursault, Janvry, Chavot, Vertus, Cuis, Avenay,Tauxières, Louvois, Villers-Marmery, Trépail. Vinified and aged on lees to eliminate the risk of premature oxidation. Extra-Brut dosage (5 g/l) to preserve the balance between freshness, fruit and vinosity, without masking the wine’s character or purity. Aged for a minimum of 3 years in the cellar at a constant temperature, well beyond the legal minimum of 15 months.

’Wafting from the glass with a generous bouquet of golden orchard fruit, dried white flowers, beeswax and fresh pastry, the new release of Gosset's NV Brut Grande Réserve is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and generous. Though it retains the house's signature incisive acids, it's unusually textural and enveloping out of the gates. Drink 2020-2035.’ 91 points, William Kelly, The Wine Advocate, May 2020.

Gosset Antique Range

NV Grande Réserve Brut
45% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 10% Pinot Meunier; predominantly Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Villers-Marmery; aged a minimum of 3 years on lees; 8g/L dosage.

‘Soft notes of fresh almond biscuits float over the lemony nose, which signals plenty of freshness. On the palate, the wine is bright and lively. Although it is very lean and has the steely note characteristic of the house, the subtle autolysis and the delicate stone fruit notes that emerge in the middle part of the palate and in the long finish are of great depth and resonance. A very elegant aperitif.’ 93 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, September 2022.

’The tension and energy of Grande Réserve are on full display in the great 2013 base vintage, filled with crunchy, exact red gala apple, lemon and even a hint of fennel. Power meets tension in a celebration of impressive fruit sources, showcasing their pedigree in depth and tension, blessed with all the toasted brioche and spice of long bottle age, illuminated by bright malic vitality and Gosset's signature of prominent, gently rolling, fine chalk mineral finesse. A very fine mousse wraps around a spine of magnificent, ripe yet confident malic acidity. Chalk minerality is heightened to profound levels, lingering very long with frothing salt mineral texture. Every detail lingers with generous length and accurate line. This is a Grande Réserve of greater precision, harmony and persistence than ever before – the finest I have seen this cuvée.’ 95 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

’(43% chardonnay, 42% pinot noir, 15% meunier). This too is quite aromatically discreet with its Meyer lemon, brioche, green apple and yeasty nose. There is excellent intensity to the wonderfully fine flavors that combine power with finesse, all wrapped in a crisp, very dry and notably more complex finale. This is terrific and a wine that could be enjoyed now or held for further development. 93/now+’ Burghound.com, September 2020.

NV Grand Rosé Brut
50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir (including the addition of 8% red wine) from the villages of Avize, Ambonnay, Chouilly, Villers-Marmery, Verzenay… aged a minimum of 3 years on lees. No malolactic to retain freshness and precision and bottled with 9 g/l dosage.

'A confident chardonnay lead, low proportion of red wine and signature cut of malic acidity fulfil the brief for this delicate and graceful style. A pretty pale-salmon hue heralds a beautifully eloquent rosé that articulates the restrained mood of Gosset and the delicacy of a touch of pinot noir red wine. Pretty red cherry and strawberry fruit is fragranced with rose petal perfume, building to complex nuances of tamarillo with time in the glass. Tension and structure are defined equally by the salty chalk minerality of the great crus of the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims, and the drive of excellent, ripe malic acidity. It glides very long and harmonious.' 95 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

‘The current release of the excellent Gosset Grand Rosé is from the base year of 2013, with reserve wines from the 2012 vintage. It is composed from a cépages of fifty percent chardonnay and fifty percent pinot noir, with eight percent of this being still red wine. It was aged for four years sur latte and finished with a dosage of eight grams per liter. The beautiful bouquet wafts from the glass in a wide open and complex blend of strawberries, tangerine, rye toast, a lovely base of minerality, a delicate touch of spice tones and a top-note of dried rose petals. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, zesty and complex, with excellent mid-palate depth and mineral drive, elegant mousse and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This is outstanding Brut Rosé! 2020-2045.’ 94 points, John Gilman, View from the Cellar, January 2021

NV Grand Blanc de Blanc Brut - NEW CLEAR BOTTLE
100% Chardonnay from the villages of Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Villers-Marmery, Trepail… aged a minimum of 3 years on lees. No malolactic to retain freshness and precision and bottled with 8 gms/ltr dosage. The elegance and finesse of this wine makes it the ideal companion for an aperitif. Thanks to its freshness, it is also possible to pair it with many dishes such as scallops, crab, a fish tartar, oysters, gougères, a risotto with slivers of parmesan cheese, white meat, a young and fruity comté, parmesan cheese.

'The Gosset house style of refined minerality and thrilling malic acidity has shone in its blanc de blancs since its inaugural 2011 base release, and never more brilliantly than it does in this 2013 base of bright, pale straw hue. Youthful purity and focus rise with grand cru fruit presence and impressive concentration of pinpoint lemon and generous white peach, pear and golden delicious apple. This pristine fruit melds seamlessly with the brioche, almond nougat, shortbread, fresh vanilla and spice of lees age, and reductive nuances of struck flint. Ripe yet full and energetic malic acidity brings drive and focus to a finish of impressive length and tension, energising frothing salt minerality of heightened presence. It holds excellent harmony and poise on the finish, with fruit, minerality, dosage and malic acidity intricately entwined and uplifting. A thrilling blanc de blancs with the confidence to hold its poise for many years to come.' 94 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

‘A cuvée that emphasizes Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, the latest rendition of the NV Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut exhibits scents of citrus oil, green apples, fennel, white flowers and freshly baked bread. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a broad and powerful attack that segues into a tightly wound, racy mid-palate and concludes with a precise, delicately mordant finish. Drink 2020-2035.’ 93 points, William Kelly, The Wine Advocate, May 2019.

Gosset Héritage Range

NV Grand Blanc de Meunier Extra Brut - limited production cuvée - SOLD OUT
A one-off and exceptional wine from Gosset, 100% Pinot Meunier, aged for a full nine years on the lees in Gosset's cellars. The base vintage is 2007, with 10% reserve wines added. The Meunier comes from south-facing vineyards around Epernay, and it is very dry with only 3g/l of residual sugar. The colour immediately speaks of the age of the wine, a burnished yellow/gold, then very fine bubbles and a cushion of mousse, revealing lovely biscuit and toast and a yellow plum fruitiness. It is full and charming. In the mouth it is expansive and creamily rich, the mousse quite luxurious, and the pitch of the acidity - very noticeably saline - gives great freshness to the toasty, creamy, weighty fruit. Just lovely and a real treat to taste a truly exceptional Champagne. The fruit for Gosset’s new cuvée has been sourced from vineyards around the town of Epernay, mostly coming from Premier Cru sites, where it is planted alongside Pinot Noir. However, Pinot Meunier is not allowed Premier (or indeed Grand Cru) status, even when planted within these vineyards. Gosset cellar-master Odilon de Varine selected Meunier from mid-slope, south and east-facing sites, and vines that were between 25 and 30 years old. Malolactic fermentation was blocked, and some Chardonnay lees (the soup of dead yeast cells left after fermentation) were added to bolster the Pinot Meunier’s freshness and ageability. It’s expensive and will be hard to find with only 5,000 bottles for the world market, but fizz afficionados will surely be very keen to try it for themselves.

'The soft and rounded personality of meunier is on grand display here, snapped into sharp focus by the poise of malic acidity. This is a cuvée that cleverly and confidently achieves the precarious balance of upholding the personality of meunier with the complexity of considerable age, achieving this with the inimitable tension and precision of the house. With a full straw hue, the spicy dark berries, dark fruit cake and fruit mince spice of meunier meet the roast nuts and buttered toast of a decade of age.' 93 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

NV Grand Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut - limited production cuvée - SOLD OUT
100% Pinot Noir from 2007 vintage aged on lees for 9 years bottles with 5 gms/ltr dosage and no malolactic fermentation. Grand Blanc de Noirs is a golden yellow with deep gold flecks. It is translucent and bright, accompanied by a string of extremely fine bubbles. The nose unveils complex and harmonious aromas, reminiscent of white stone fruits along with hints of patisserie.
As it unfurls on the palate, it beautifully displays notes of beeswax and candied citron. The attack is supple and well-balanced. The finish is crisp and fresh with salty, almost iodine, notes, along with a certain minerality and structure. Perfectly balanced between intense aromas and elegant finesse. The fruity structure of the Pinot Noir is expressed with surprising freshness and precision.

‘There is tremendous richness and exuberance of pinot noir personality here, fleshy, spicy and generously blackfruited, with gorgeous satsuma plum and black cherry definition. All of the complexity of a decade of age is on grand parade in toasty character and a medium to full straw hue. Like the meunier, it proudly declares its Gosset DNA, confidently flying the house flag of definition and focus. It concludes with fantastic balance and integrity, holding wonderfully rounded, succulent presence with outstanding line and poise.’ 94 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

’Exclusively made from Pinot Noir cultivated in Ambonnay, Aÿ, Verzy, Chigny-les-Roses and Tauxières, the intensely white-golden colored NV Grand Blanc de Noirs Extra-Brut is deep, intense and rich on the toasty and vinous nose. Full-bodied, round and pure, this is a generous, highly elegant, precise, finessed, fresh and stimulatingly salty cuvée with structure, grip and persistent vinous character. It has very nice reduction and piercing minerality. Tasted in August 2018 from lot L7168111 with a dosage of five grams per liter. Drink 2018-2030.’ 94 points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, November 2018.

NV 12 Ans de Cave à Minima Brut - limited production cuvee (last bottles)
Made from 51% Pinot Noir from the villages of Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy and Louvois and 49% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil sur Oger in the Côte des Blancs and Villers-Marmery in the Montagne des Reims. Based on the rich and opulent 2006 vintage with reserve wines making up 8% of the wine. Vinified and aged on lees on the lees avoiding premature oxidation. Malolactic fermentation carefully avoided in order to preserve the natural fruit character of the wines in vats and ensure they are perfectly preserved. Brut dosage (7g/l) the balance between freshness, fruitiness and vinosity whilst keeping the character of the wine and its purity. Aged 12 years in the cellar to obtain a complex and fruity wine this cuvee was disgorged in December 2019 with just 12,000 bottles produced. This cuvee can be enjoyed as aperitif and food match to have 2 different wines from the same bottle, after pouring aperitif, carafing the rest to serve with main courses.

‘Aged for at least 12 years after bottling, this Champagne is richly textured, showing mature fruitiness, touches of aging from the brioche flavors and an elegant, ripe aftertaste.’ 95 points, Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast, December 2020.

‘This is a brand new cuvée from Champagne Gosset, which is from the base year of 2006. The cépages is fifty-one percent pinot noir and forty-nine percent chardonnay, with the blend augmented with eight percent of reserve wines. It was aged sur latte for twelve and a half years prior to disgorgement in December of 2019 and finished with a dosage of seven grams per liter. The bouquet is deep, complex and nicely refined with age, wafting from the glass in a classy blend of apple, white peach, fresh-baked bread, a refined base of chalky soil tones, dried flowers and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and beautifully resolved today, with a deep core of fruit, excellent soil signature and grip, elegant mousse and a long, complex and perfectly balanced finish. This is drinking beautifully, but has decades and decades of life still ahead of it. Superb juice. 2020-2055+‘ 94 points, John Gilman, View from the Cellar, January 2021

‘Based on the 2006 vintage and disgorged in December 2019, the inaugural release of Gosset's new NV Brut 12 Ans de Cave a Minima wafts from the glass with a lovely bouquet of candied peel, warm biscuits, yellow orchard fruit and brioche. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's bright and incisive, with beautifully integrated acids, a delicate pinpoint mousse and a long, sapid finish. Gosset's racy style has really synergized with the ripe vintage and long sur lattes maturation to make for a very successful cuvée. Drink 2020-2035.’ 93 points, William Kelly, The Wine Advocate, May 2020.

2015 Grand Millésime Brut
Composed of 59 % Pinot Noir and 41 % Chardonnay from Ambonnay, Avenay, Avize, Bisseuil, Chavot, Cramant, Moussy, Noé les Mallets, Pierry, Trépail, Verzy, Villers Marmery. Bottled with 4 grams/litre dosage. After disgorgement, the bottles are returned to the cellars to rest for at least 6 months to allow the wine to smoothly assimilate the dosage.

‘The inviting, ripe scent of ripe quince, aromatic cherry notes, candied cherry and shortcrust pastry immediately sets the tone and promises fullness. As befits a Gosset, the fullness of the aromas is present, and on the palate it remains absolutely taut, fine and filigree. Balance and elegance are in the foreground. The lively freshness is renewed again and again with every tiny, bursting, creamy CO2 pearl. It's a feat to pack so much expression into such a slimness. Beautiful.’ 96 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, January 2022.

“A firm, focused version, this swathes a chiseled spine of acidity in a raw, silky texture and finely meshed flavors of yellow peach, orange liqueur, honeycomb and chopped almond. A rich streak of salinity drives the well-cut, spiced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2035.” 94 points, Wine Spectator, Sept 2022

‘The 2015 Brut Grand Millésime is terrific. Bright and intensely floral, the 2015 bristles with all the energy that is such a signature of the Gosset house style. White flowers, mint and crushed flowers open first. If I have a critique of Gosset is that the wines can be a bit austere. That is certainly not the issue here. The 2015 is distinguished by its sweet, resonant mid-palate and terrific depth. All the elements are so nicely balanced throughout. Drink 2022–2030.’ 93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2022.

Gosset Celebris Range

2007 Celebris Extra Brut
’Good vintage years ending in a ‘7’ have been few and far between since 1947. CELEBRIS 2007 benefits from 10 years ageing in the cellar, giving the vintage a fair maturity and fine balance.’ Odilon de Varine, Cellarmaster.

Vinified and aged on lees to eliminate all risk of premature oxidation. Malolactic fermentation is carefully avoided in order to preserve all the natural fruit aromas of the wine and to allow the wines to undergo longer ageing. Extra-Brut dosage (3g/l) to maintain the balance between freshness, fruit and vinosity without masking the wine’s personality and purity. Ageing for a minimum of 10 years in the cellar results in a beautifully complex and structured wine. This is an excellent wine for laying down. Chardonnay 57% (Vertus, Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Verzy, Trépail), Pinot Noir 43% (Cumières, Avenay, Aÿ-Champagne, Bouzy, Ambonnay.)

'Pale golden colour. Delicate, expressive and complex nose with notes of ripe white fruit, mocha and roasted coffee. On the palate we find the same very seductive aromatic profile, with an incredible length. For exceptional dishes.' 98 points, Gilbert & Gaillard International Challenge, 2020.

'Celebris is intricately crafted for heightened elegance with amplified stamina, downplaying fruit concentration while zapping it with a charge of malic acidity that jolts everything into a state of frenzy, slaying innocent, youthful white flowers, white cherries and golden delicious apples with an ice shard of acidity that screams out for years to soften. Fresh coconut, almond nougat and creamy texture declare the magic of long lees age, trailing long into a grand finish of pronounced, mouth-filling salt minerality that bores to the core of Champagne’s greatest grand crus.' 96 points, Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2020-2021.

‘This stylish, complex and elegantly powerful Champagne is the pinnacle of Gosset’s range and delivers such layered, fresh and complex style. The palate has a super smooth-honed, long and plush feel with a wealth of grilled almonds and grapefruit. Long, succulent draw through the finish. Magnificent. Drink now.’ 96 points, Nick Stock, James Suckling, September 2019.

’The 2007 Celebris Extra Brut is the latest rendition of this cuvée, which cellar master Odilon de Varine describes as "not a vintage Gosset but a Gosset vintage"—meaning that it's produced only in years adapted to the house's powerful but austere style. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lemon oil, marzipan, warm biscuits and wet stones, it's full-bodied, with a deep and concentrated core of ripe but racy fruit, a tangy spine of acidity and an elegant pinpoint mouse, displaying terrific purity and precision. Drink 2020-2040.’ 95 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, May 2019.

2008 Celebris Extra Brut - EXTREMELY LIMITED

‘The nose of the golden wine immediately exudes creaminess, a soft richness reminiscent of freshly baked apricot and almond cake and red apple flesh, spiced with fine, heady hints of freshly peeled Tarocco orange peel. On the palate, the wine is just as creamy as on the nose, but still has the balance and lovely, salty depth of the 2008. The fine phenolic side is reminiscent of bitter almonds and apple seeds, which combines well with the smooth, taut and slightly salty richness, the ultra-fine mousseux and the aromas of ripe lemon peel. Beautiful.’ 97 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, January 2022.

‘The 2008 Extra-Brut Celebris offers up hints of apricot, brioche, baked apple tart, white pepper, chamomile and dried flowers. Extended time on the lees yields a Champagne with terrific flavor and textural complexity. This is an especially deep, vinous Champagne from Gosset. I would prefer to drink it at the dinner table, as it is a very serious wine. Drink 2023–2038.’ 96 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2022.

‘A graceful Champagne, showing a sense of finesse to the detailed intersection of bright, buoyant acidity and chalky minerality, with a fine, satiny mousse and flavors of ripe Asian pear, dried white cherry, salted almond, lemon curd and crystallized honey. Long and mouthwatering on the creamy finish, echoing spice and saline notes. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2038.’ 96 points, Wine Spectator, September 2022.

2008 Celebris Rosé Extra Brut - EXTREMELY LIMITED
Very small production from this highly anticipated vintage after 11 years of ageing on lees. Predominantly from Chardonnay Grand Crus at 72 % with 28 % of Pinot Noir in the blend including 8 % of red wine. The villages of Avize, Aÿ, Ambonnay and Cramant are at the core of the blend and it was bottled with 6.5 grams/litre of dosage.

‘The nose opens with a slightly floral but exquisitely scented scent of orange cake, with a hint of iron oxide appearing on the air. On the palate, the ripe apricot scent presents itself in a generous, round, full-bodied but precise body. The extremely creamy mousse underlines the sparkling freshness.’ 98 points, Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff, December 2021.

‘The 2008 Brut Rosé Celebris is an absolutely gorgeous Champagne that captures the essence of the Gosset house style. Bright and ethereal in feel, the 2008 is deceptive in its first impression, but it has plenty of depth to match its decidedly regal, understated personality. The 6.5 grams of dosage feels perfectly judged, just enough to fill out the layers and avoid some of the starkness these wines can show, but not so much as to be overpowering. Crushed red berry fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper build as this finely-sculpted Rosé shows off its charms. This is beautifully done. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2021. Drink 2021–2031.’ 94 points,Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2021.

A rich rosé in a vinous style, with steeped raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors and an aromatic overtone of whole grain toast, crystallized honey and salted almond. Fine and creamy in texture, with a firm backbone of well-knit acidity creating a mouthwatering impression on the lightly chalky, herb- and spice-laced finish. Chardonnay and Pinot. Drink now through 2028.' 94 points, Wine Spectator, August 2021.

2012 Celebris Blanc de Blanc - EXTREMELY LIMITED
Just 15000 bottles produced of this very singular Champagne which has been aged for 9 years on lees. Made from 100% Chardonnay from the villages of Avize, Ambonnay, Cramant, Cumieres, Passy sur Marne, Trepail, Vertus, Villers-Marmery and Le Mesnil sur Oger. This was disgorged in March 2022 and it was bottled with 7 grams/litre of dosage.
In appearance, the Gosset Celebris Blanc de Blancs 2012 has a bright gold body mellowed by emerald glints and the most delicate bubbles. Its fresh nose has a mentholated hint that develops on to fruity aromas of pink grapefruit and frangipane. It burst onto the palate bringing more freshness with a touch of lemon. On the mid-palate, the wine is a medly of French classic desserts – think baked apples with salted butter, tarte tatin and far Breton. There’s also a subtle complexity flavoured with a spicy hint of stem ginger and star anise. The long tonic and mineral finish delivers crisp Reinette apple and a dash of citrus.

‘Light yellow gold, silver reflections, very fine, long-lasting mousse. Fresh yellow apple fruit underlaid with white flowers, nuances of grapefruit and fresh biscuit, and lemony-minty aspects. Complex, ripe pome fruit, a hint of lime, precise, racy acid structure, fine hints of spice, nuances of baked apple and nougat, fresh lemony but also mineral-salty nuances on the finish, very good length, a multifaceted food accompaniment.’ 96 points, Peter Moser, Falstaff, March 2022.

‘A powerful, explosive Champagne, the 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Celebris hits the palate with layers of exotic, resonant Chardonnay fruit. Savory, floral and earthy notes add dimension. Readers will find a dense, potent Blanc de Blancs for the dinner table. Exceptionally complex and beguiling, the 2012 will drink well for another decade, maybe more. This is the inaugural release of this particular cuvée. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2022. Drink 2024-2037.' 95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous, November 2023.

‘A firm, focused Champagne, with hints of smoke and toasted brioche accenting poached apricot, lemon curd, pastry dough and candied ginger. Creamy on the palate, with racy acidity driving the spiced finish. Opens nicely in the glass and should benefit from some short-term cellaring. Best from 2025 through 2035.’ 94 points, Wine Spectator, September 2023.

2012 Celebris Extra Brut - due spring 2024
White gold, with a very fine, persistent mousse. Exciting aromatic restraint on first sniff: exquisite, very finely pointed and precise, initially a subtle weave of fleurs blanches and sweetpeas, confit lemon, and light patisserie scents; even a faint whiff of vanilla (though not from any wood). Elegant on entry, finely taut but not tight, the tension of a perfectly tuned violin string, then gradually melting, softening, through an ethereal, flourishing, gracefully scintillating finish of great, gentle persistence. After a little time in the glass, a fragrance pleasingly reminiscent of great white Burgundy, with lime and linden; and after a little longer still, spicier, white-pepper notes. 

After a first glass, Odilon transfers the wine into a decanter the same shape as the beautiful bottle in its original 1760 guise—a progression he recommends for the resulting “change of dimension.” Now the nose, not surprisingly, is broader, deeper, more open, the fruit (and even positive vegetal) notes more pronounced, the floral notes more exotic. What’s astonishing and much more surprising is that this expansion entails no loss of focus, intensity, or purity—indeed, the steely core shines even more brightly, revealed as the layers of the surrounding wrapping separate out and unfurl. The wine’s gastronomic potential was showcased by the meticulously prepared food at Ekstedt, and Odilon expects this 2012 Celebris to age as well as the currently spectacular 2002. 97 points, World of Fine Wine, Neil Beckett, December 2023.