Sailor Seeks Horse (NSW & Victoria)

This tiny vineyard is one of Australia’s most southerly located in the Huon valley in southern Tasmania. Paul and Gilli Lipscombe own the vineyard and make the wines and both have considerable vineyard and winemaking experience behind them including winning the Jimmy Watson trophy for Home Hill where they have been the winemakers in recent years. From working together in the Languedoc to New Zealand, Oregon and Margaret River they spent a lot of time researching and considering the best possible vineyard site with the aim  to produce Australia’s best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay finally settling on this ideal north facing vineyard which is sheltered from the prevailing south-westerly winds. Best described as a warm site within a cool climate, the soil is free-draining quartz inflected mudstone soil over clay. The vineyard is planted to a large variety of Dijon clones as well as numerous other clones planted by the previous owners and all vineyard work is done as organically as possible. In 2019 a new planting including some Trousseau has been made on the steep north-west facing slope beside the main vineyard block.

So to the name, where does that come from? There was a handwritten sign on the wall at the Red Velvet Lounge in Cygnet, our local coffee and cake respite from the Tasmanian weather. It said, “Sailor Seeks Horse” and went on to explain that the author had sailed solo around the world and ridden across the US from coast to coast and back again…on a mule. He’d then decided he wanted to travel around Tasmania by horse but didn’t have one. So, was there anyone who would lend him one? If they didn’t have a horse then a pony would do. It was an idea that resonated with us. Here we were, trying to do something a little bit crazy, without much money and requiring a little bit of help to get to where we wanted to be.

Vintage 2022
‘2022 can be summed up as 'wet then dry'. Maybe that's a touch simplistic but less is more as they say. Good canopies early in the season and then a relatively stress-free growing season meant bunches were a little fuller than 2021 and so yields came in at about our average which means a few more bottles this year than last. 

While it was dry at the end of summer and temperatures were fairly normal, it wasn't particularly sunny and as the fruit came in we had an inkling that it was a good Huldufólk Chardonnay year but we'd have to see whether we could find a Huldufólk Pinot. As it turned out, there were no single/double barrel Pinot combinations that were as complete as previous iterations and so we decided to see what a blend of all the Dijon clones (115, 114, 777) together would look like. As both fruit and wine they are often quite different to the 'older' clones and tend to be lower yielding and 'purer'. It's easy to reach for the term 'Burgundian' in this context and while it's a broad brush it gets you to the destination quicker than a bunch of flavour/texture descriptors. Perhaps. Either way, we loved the wine so we decided to bottle it!

2022 was a standout vintage for Chardonnay in the Huon Valley. Just the right combination of weather and yields to create wines of precision and balance. Our hallmark tends to be a slatey, briney, almost mineral-like palate weight which unites the two Chardonnays from 2022. 

The Huldufolk's whole-bunch pressing straight to oak gives it depth and palate weight while the Estate Chardonnay is all about cool-climate elegance.’ Gilli and Paul Lipscombe.

2022 Sailor Seeks Horse Chardonnay - SOLD OUT
From four Dijon clones (95, 96, 76 & 277) in two sections of the vineyard over 2 hectares in 2010.

‘Whole bunch pressed, 'hyperox' into press tray, 12 hour settle in tank, racked to 300L hogsheads, 20% new, wild ferment, no MLF, full lees 12 months' elevage in barrel, then 3 months in tank before bottling. Not fined. Mostly 277 and 95 clones with a little 96. Citrus, stone fruit, slatey middle palate, touch of richness, spice, white pepper.’ Gilli Lipscombe.

2022 Chardonnay Huldufolk - SOLD OUT rated #29 in James Suckling top 100 wines of Australia 2024
The name means ‘hidden people’ in Icelandic and has its origins in 19th century folklore. This certainly is a hidden gem - if you are one of the lucky people to get one of just 800 bottles. The Huldufolk label is reserved for exceptional parcels of Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir.

‘Whole bunch pressed with full solids straight to two hogsheads. 50% new oak. 15 months elevage. No MLF. Full lees until bottling. Not fined. Clone 96 with a little 95. Waxy, lemon rind, brine, bay leaf.’ Gilli Lipscombe.

2022 Sailor Seeks Horse Pinot Noir
‘Wild ferments, gently plunged twice daily, then left on skins post ferment until the tannins aligned and pressed straight to barrel. 5% whole bunch. 10% new oak, mix of barriques, hogsheads and puncheons. 12 months in oak, 3 months in tank pre-bottling. Sulphured mid-summer. Un-fined Savoury, blue/red fruit, sappy, classic SSH nose, thyme, garrigue, flow.’ Gilli Lipscombe.

‘Huon Valley pinot noir, wild ferment, 5% whole bunch, 12 months' maturation in a mix of barriques, hogsheads and puncheons, 10% new. Mid-ruby with aromas of wild strawberry, red and dark cherry with hints of raspberry coulis, Chinese barbecue joint, sous bois, nori, souk spices, crushed stone and low-volume wood spice. Spacious and silken, with just a scattering of amaro herbs, a touch of brine to the acidity and sapidity and ease of drinking galore. Drink 2023-2035.’ 96 Points, Dave Brookes, Halliday Wine Companion, June 2024.

2022 Pinot Noir Dijon Clones - SOLD OUT
‘Mix of 777, 115, and 114. Same treatment as the main blend during ferment then 24% new oak and no whole bunch. Elevage same as the main Pinot Noir. Strawberry, cream, sandalwood, weight, lightness of touch combined with structure, sapid. Only 1266 bottles produced. 12.2 % alc/vol.’ Gilli Lipscombe.

The following wines from the Tamar Valley vineyard SMALL WONDER (formerly Goaty Hill) - certified organic or 2023 vintage

2023 Small Wonder by Sailor Seeks Horse Chardonnay
‘A wet spring meant poor flowering across Tasmania, reducing yields significantly yet the rest of the season was relatively peaceful if cooler than normal. Despite the lower yields the cooler season ensured picking was about 'normal' in the old money so resulted in wines that were both restrained and elegant but intense. An excellent vintage if truth be told. A classical Tasmanian Chardonnay – all citrus, stone fruit, pith, weight and length.’ Gilli Lipscombe.

2023 Samll Wonder by Sailor Seeks Horse Pinot Noir
‘A wet spring meant poor flowering across Tasmania, reducing yields significantly yet the rest of the season was relatively peaceful if cooler than normal. Despite the lower yields the cooler season ensured picking was about 'normal' in the old money so resulted in wines that were both restrained and elegant but intense. An excellent vintage if truth be told. The Pommard clone from this site and its red-fruited, pepper-spice aromas and plush, sweet fruited palate combines with a touch of bitterness to taste like it has had a bit of whole bunch fermentation but it hasn’t!’ Gilli Lipscombe.