Mader

The Mader domaine is a very small family-owned producer based in the picture-postcard village of Hunawihr, the next village to the south of Ribeauvillé. The domaine owns just over 10 hectares of vineyards, including prized holdings in the famous Grand Cru vineyards of Rosacker and Schlossberg.

Jérôme Mader took over from his father in 2005 and immediately set about converting all the domaine’s vineyards to organic viticulture, gaining certification from 2007. Jérôme was also an early adopter of screw caps and the entire range, with the odd exception, has been bottled under screw cap since 2009.

Rieslings here are produced in a classic fine dry style built to age. In exceptional years a tiny volume of late harvest ‘Vendanges Tardive’ Riesling is made in a similar fine, elegant style that ages superbly. Jerome is fanatical about quality so yields are kept very low and selections for all wines are extremely strict ensuring the highest quality. The entire range of wines from the Mader family taste true to their grape varieties and vineyard origins and all represent fantastic value.

In recent years there have been many developments pointing to the future including the exciting project of reclaiming long abandoned slopes in Ribeauville closer to the mountains in a full south facing slope which benefits from the cooling breezes coming from the mountain every afternoon. This has been a long and gradual process of clearing and replanting using massale selection vines coming from many of the top estates of Alsace which have been cultivated among a group of like-minded friends who are among the top producers of the region. Also the holding of Pinot Gris in Grand cru Schlossberg has been uprooted ready for re-planting with Syrah on this steep site which has sandy decomposed granite soil - perfect for Syrah. Also Pinot Noir comes into focus with rapidly increasing quality for the 2 wines made from this variety. With Pinot Noir vineyards in the granite soils of Rosenburg (Riquewihr) and also the richer clay over limestone marls soils in Muhlforst (Hunawihr) these wines have been gaining in character and precision every vintage - this year we could not resist any longer. So some very exciting additions to our selection from 2023.

2023 vintage: Jerome Mader describes 2023 as “After the frying 2022 vintage, 2023 was just one more boiling year. So nothing exceptional on the temperature side considering the climate change. What makes 2023 different is the extreme drought: we had the driest winter and growing season ever with less than 270 L/m2 from November 2022 to October 2023.  

Vines grew slowly, tried to save every single rain drop. Our main job in the field was to reduce the yield to make sure vines stay healthy despite the lack of water. At the end, harvest started on the first week of September under the sun. Fruit achieved a fully ripe maturation without any stress which is a great and quite an unexpected point I have to say.

The result is classic, and it is hard to taste the drought on the wines. Acids are a bit lower on Rieslings but freshness is still here. Phenolics are low and well-integrated on all wines. My overall feeling is that 2023 is a good to very good vintage on all variety and type of wines with a pristine textbook flavors profile and a nice freshness given lots of drinkability. I have a few doubts about the aging potential but to confirm that we have to wait 15 years more…”

2023 Riesling Burgweg  (Stelvin) - NEW
Coming from the village of Ribeauville this vineyard is pure Gneiss terroir. This 0.8 ha vineyard was abandoned for 40 years and in 2016 Jerome decided to buy and replant the site with terraced vines which is full south-facing, and as the vineyard lies so close to the forest and the start of the valley, the afternoons and nights are very very cold giving excellent retention of acidity and making this site a good bet on the future climate. Planted with massale selection Riesling coming from some of the most famed estates of Alsace which Jerome propagates in the Muhlforst vineyard together with Eric Kientzler and other top vignerons who work together to create a ‘bank’ of beautiful old massale selection vines to replant and renew vineyards with.
Whole bunch pressed and vinfied and aged in 100% stainless steel for 9 months on fine lees. Fresh and fruity with a big load of minerality and gun-powder typical from the gneiss and granite terroir. A wine that is very straight and pure with great salinity and less alcohol than the richer marl terroirs which are typical of this area. A wine to discover.
2023 is the 3rd vintage of this wine and what an outstanding success in this vintage. This vintage shows exceptional tension and purity. Powerful and incredibly long on the palate at 13.0% alc. Very limited from this small vineyard, do not miss this exciting new addition to this exceptional range of wines. 13.02 % Alc/Vol; 0.8 g/L RS; 5.3 g/L TA.
”Mineral, concentrated and ample wine. Grapefruit on the palate and it shines with its long salty finish.” 93 points, La RVF, July/August 2024 - top village wine selected for tasting.

2023 Riesling (Stelvin) - due summer 2024
This wine also contains almost 10% de-classified Grand Cru fruit from vines around 30 years old in the great Rosacker vineyard. The wine is a blend of several sites of mostly limestone based soil from vines of 20-50 years old. All parcels are harvested and vinified separately with the final blend being made just before bottling. Whole bunch pressed and aged on fine lees for 6 months before bottling. 2023 has produced a fine dry Riesling with texture and depth. Intense floral and citrus aromas with mineral backing and wonderful acid backbone.
”Flavorful with a note of blood orange zest. The palate is dense and long.” 91 points, La RVF, July/August 2024.

2023 Gewürztraminer DRY (Stelvin) - NEW
The 2023 Gewürztraminer is another very exciting new addition (to hopefully be repeated) which comes entirely from Grand cru Rosacker which exceeded the yields allowed for Grand cru and as such has had to be de-classified in this vintage. Also notably the wine fermented almost totally dry finishing with just 3.5 g/L residual sugar making this the driest Gewürztraminer we have tasted at the estate. What an outstanding success this has proven to be, showing the signature rose petal aromatics so typical of this terroir. Whole bunch pressed with natural fermentation and ageing on lees for 6 months. It has a clear and fresh, pretty, precise and aromatic bouquet of rose water and wild roses with some smoky spicy aromas finishing dry and very long making this incredibly moreish. A fine and refreshing gewurztraminer to drink by the bottle not just by the glass. Another outstanding success in this vintage.

2023 Pinot Gris (Stelvin)
All from Hunawihr, this Pinot Gris comes from 38yo vines on a heavy and deep clay soil with a bit of limestone. East exposure. The clay brings softness and texture to the Pinot Gris and the deep soil provides great length. 25% of this cuvee is aged on fine lees for 7 months in old neutral oak and 75% in stainless steel with 20% malo on this wine.
Good aromatic lift with smoky peach, apple and exotic tropical fruit characters on the nose and palate. The driest Gris we have tasted here yet still round and supple in texture, with wonderfully precise flavour. Great concentration and depth with a tiny hint of residual sweetness (3.6 g/l) in this ripe vintage. The rich texture and cleansing acid balance gives this wine great immediate appeal yet it also has the structure and depth to age mid-term. 13.9 % Alc/Vol; 0.9 g/L RS; 5.31 g/L TA.

2023 Pinot Noir - NEW
Pinot Noir has been grown in Alsace for many years and each year we taste the two cuvees made here and this year we could not resist any longer - this wine is simply outstanding in 2023.
100% destemmed and coming from vineyards both in Hunawihr and Rosenburg in Riquewihr. This is aged 50% in stainless steel tank and 50% in 228 litre barrels from both Tonnellerie D (the barrel maker of choice for Clos Rougeard) and also Rousseau Tonnellerie. Showing excellent depth of colour with great freshness and purity this wine leaps from the glass in 2023 and is a great success offering both depth of character and great Pinot Noir purity that would happily compare with top Pinot Noirs from any region.

2022 vintage: Jerome Mader describes 2022 as “It reminds me of 2020 in many aspects with maybe more depth (but not sweetness) probably thank to lower yield than in 2020. So far, I am very happy with the 2022 vintage.”

2022 Pinot Blanc (Stelvin)
Made from a blend of 15 % Pinot Blanc and 85 % Auxerrois (36 yo vines) whole bunch pressed with natural fermentation with 15% of this wine aged in barrel on fine lees for 8 months. This shows classic white flower and citric aromas leading to a crisp and refreshing palate.
12.91 % Alc/Vol; 2.5 g/L RS; 4.8 g/L TA (tartric acid as most has gone through malo although Jerome usually tries to avoid malo on this wine to retain as much natural acidity as possible.)

2022 Pinot Blanc Helfant (Stelvin)
100 % Pinot Blanc. A new cuvee that we are particularly excited about coming from 70 yo vines on a high (320 metres) east facing slope in the lieu-dit of Helfant which is located above Rosacker Grand Cru, which it borders on to, and their vineyard shares the same soil as Rosacker bedrock (shell limestone covered with sandstone). Whole bunch pressed and raised in old oak for 10 months on fine lees with no malo and fermented dry. This is Pinot Blanc with depth and character we rarely see and with potential to age though looking so good now it is guaranteed not to last very long. 14.2 % Alc/Vol; 1.7 g/L RS; 5.40 g/L TA.

2022 Riesling (Stelvin)
This wine also contains almost 10% de-classified Grand Cru fruit from vines around 30 years old in the great Rosacker vineyard. The wine is a blend of several sites of mostly limestone based soil from vines of 20-50 years old. All parcels are harvested and vinified separately with the final blend being made just before bottling. Whole bunch pressed and aged on fine lees for 6 months before bottling. 2022 has produced a fine dry Riesling with texture and depth. Intense floral and citrus aromas with mineral backing and wonderful acid backbone.
13.43 % Alc/Vol; 3.4 g/L RS; 6.3 g/L TA.

2022 Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker (Stelvin and magnums under natural cork)
From 43 to 68 year old vines mostly located near the top of the vineyard. 2022 was a warm vintage delivering surprising freshness for this outstanding Grand Cru vineyard which is home to the famous ‘Clos St Hune’ Riesling from Trimbach. Yield of just 35 hl/ha in the 2022 vintage resulted in this wine of great intensity, finesse and shape with rich, intense citrus fruit with notes of minerality and outstanding length. The wine’s great depth of fruit, structure and minerally acidity ensures that 15 years or more of careful cellaring would be well repaid.
14.02 % Alc/Vol; 2.3 g/L RS; 6.35g/L TA.

2021 vintage: Jerome Mader describes 2021 as “more than just good. Salty, fresh, elegant and never too much. 2021 is a classic vintage that we might not ever make again, as climate takes us in another direction. It reminds us of Alsace wines made 30 years ago.”

2021 Pinot Blanc Helfant (Stelvin) - new cuvee now available - last bottles
100 % Pinot Blanc. A new cuvee that Jerome is particularly excited about coming from the lieu-dit of Helfant which is located above Rosacker Grand Cru and bordering on to Muhlforst and their vineyard shares the same soil as Rosacker bedrock (shell limestone covered with sandstone). Here the Mader vines are 60+ yo and in 2021 produced at 30 hl/ha. Raised in old oak and with no malo and fermented dry. Pinot Blanc with depth and character we rarely see and with potential to age though looking so good now it is guaranteed not to last very long.
13.4 % Alc/Vol; 2.6 g/L RS; 7.99 g/L TA.

2021 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Schlossberg (Dry) (Stelvin) last vintage
Schlossberg is a south-east facing slope from a steep terraced granite block. It became the first Alsace grand cru in 1975. Mader’s vineyard is east-facing and the highest on the slope from vines over 25 y.o. giving tiny yield. The wine is whole bunch pressed with indigenous fermentation. Aged on lees for 9 months, 1/3 barrel, 2/3 stainless steel. This is an extremely impressive wine and one of the few really dry expressions of Pinot Gris to be found in Alsace. It is a graceful wine with subtle power which builds impressively at the back of the palate.
13.57 % Alc/Vol; 2.3 g/L RS; 7.24 g/L TA.

2021 Gewürztraminer (Stelvin)
The 2021 Gewürztraminer is sourced in the higher altitudes of Hunawihr (mostly Muhlforst and in 2021 also the entire harvest of Grand cru Rosacker) from clay and limestone soils. Whole bunch pressed with natural fermentation and ageing on lees for 5 months. It has a clear and fresh, pretty, precise and aromatic bouquet of rose water and wild roses with some smoky spicy aromas. Bottled with 22.8 grams of residual sugar, this is a round and semi-sweet Gewürztraminer with good grip and some lovely mineral characteristics.
13.2 % Alc/Vol; 22.8 g/L RS; 4.98 g/L TA.

2018 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Rosacker (Stelvin)
Notable rose water aromas, fresh and nicely spicy. On the palate this is a very elegant, finessed and salty Gewurztraminer with a nice tannin grip and structure. The finish is long and complex, well structured, and, although it is quite sweet (45 gms/ltr), it is a persistent and expressive Gewurztraminer that is nicely discreet. 12.71 % Alc/Vol; 44.59 g/L RS; 5.32 g/L TA.

2018 Gewürztraminer Vendanges Tardives 500ml
This late harvest selection of 2018 Gewürztraminer is from 44 year-old vines in their holding in lieu-dit Muhlforst in the higher altitudes of Hunawihr (which adjoins Grand Cru Rosacker) from clay and limestone soils. It has a clear and fresh, pretty, precise and aromatic bouquet of rose water and wild roses with some smoky aromas. Bottled with 107 grams of residual sugar, this is a moderately sweet late harvest Gewürztraminer with excellent length and definition.
13.2 % Alc/Vol; 107 g/L RS; 4.7 g/L TA.

2019 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Rosacker (Stelvin) - due 2025
Made from 23 year old vines on Grand Cru Rosacker, situated on the north side of Hunawihr, is a south east facing slope on a deep limestone ground with high concentration of magnesium and silica. Due to his proximity with the mountain, it is a medium cold terroir (compare to other limestone Grand Cru terroir) that allow a long ripening season without botrytis. Whole bunch pressed with natural fermentation with ageing on lees for 7 months. Shows distinct rose water and lychee aromas, ripe rich and generous with hints of spice. The palate shows fresh vivid fruit with notable freshness and excellent clarity with ample structure. The finish is long complex and moderately sweet (37.8 gms/ltr) showing excellent harmony so typical of Gewurztraminer in this great site. 13.4 % Alc/Vol; 37.8 g/L RS; 5.21 g/L TA.

2018 Riesling Berg (sweet) (Stelvin)
Very limited production of this stunning gently sweet wine which was picked as vendanges tardives and comes from the hill bordering the summit of Grand cru Rosacker. The vineyard shares the same limestone/shell base as Rosacker but is cooler due to its height and proximity to the forest. Jerome Mader has de-classified this so it doesn’t carry vendanges tardives classification as he feels that this doesn’t quite compare to the level of sweetness that they have achieved in the past (in 1990 + 2001). Only a tiny amount produced of this remarkably fresh (12%) and very attractive medium-sweet, late harvest wine. Lovely fine fruit intensity, very pure and precise and very long on the palate. With a residual sugar level of 61g/l it’s about half as sweet as a typical Sauternes. And with its vibrant balancing acidity it’s an ideal wine to enjoy at the beginning of the meal as an aperitif, with paté or foie gras, or with scallop, lobster or chicken dishes. It’s also a natural for the cheese platter, particularly with the local cheeses Munster and Tomme d’Alsace.
12.0 % Alc/Vol; 61 g/L RS; 6.6 g/L TA.

2020 Riesling Muhlforst (Stelvin) - SOLD OUT
Muhlforst adjoins Grand cru Rosacker in the village of Hunawihr and generally has more clay in its marl composition, giving wines of more immediate fruit and depth which drink very well from an early age. An application to create a new category of Premier Cru is currently before the regulatory authorities and Muhlforst is proposed as one of the first of several long-famous lieu-dits to be promoted. 13.5 % Alc/Vol; 4.0 g/L RS; 8.0 g/L TA.