Coffinet-Duvernay Burgundy, France
Established: 1989 for the current estate and 5 generations previous to Bastien Duvernay joining the family in 2012
Appellations:
AOC Bourgogne (Aligote)
AOC Chassagne Montrachet + 1er cru
AOC Batard Montrachet Grand cru
Proprietor: Coffinet Duvernay family
Winemaker: Bastien Duvernay
Wine Making Overview: Adapted to each site and parcel. Hand harvest into small shallow 10kg crates. Whole bunch for both whites and reds with wild yeast fermentation throughout. Maturation for 12-16 months in mostly older barrels, 25% new for whites (50% for Batard Montrachet) and up to 50% new for reds. The wines are unfiltered, fined if necessary, and then bottled at the estate.
Viticulture: Organic principles - not certified
Vegan Friendly: yes
Vineyard Area: 6.5 ha (6 ha Chardonnay, 0.5 ha Pinot Noir)
Vineyards: 20 parcels located in Chassagne Montrachet
AOC Bourgogne (Aligote)
AOC Chassagne Montrachet + Les Blanchot Dessous
AOC Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru 8 different cru’s
AOC Batard Montrachet Grand cru
Vine Density: 5 000/ha
Average Production: 2 500 dozen (100 barrels maximum)
“What a brilliant tasting! For two reasons – the range of wines was outstanding and secondly, I found that I learnt a lot from young Bastien Duvernay concerning the various vineyards where the family have holdings.”
Bastien Duvernay is the grandson of Fernand Coffinet and now runs this tiny estate which also incorporates vines from the Duvernay family with a total of just 6.5 hectares of vines. Located in the heart of Chassagne Montrachet (almost next door to PYCM), the vineyard holdings of this estate make this one of the finest to be found in the village with an enviable selection of some of the very best 1er cru sites throughout the village.
For winemaking all wines are whole bunch pressed for both white and red and fermented with indigenous yeast using a selection of several different cooper for oak maturation, Cavin, Seguin-Moreau, Tremaux, Billon, Radoux and Eric Millard. Small safe amounts of SO2 are used in the elevage until bottling with minimal safe levels. Reduction is not part of his style, allowing absolute purity and terroir definition for each wine. His aim is to allow the personality of each parcel to come through clearly in his wines.
What a brilliant tasting! For two reasons – the range of wines was outstanding and secondly, I found that I learnt a lot from young Bastien Duvernay concerning the various vineyards where the family have holdings.
The two senior vineyards Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Dent de Chien and Grand Cru Bâtard-Montrachet were picked on 4th September, with the harvest beginning in earnest two days later. Degrees were mostly between 13 and 13.5%, rising towards 14% by the end of the harvest, while a correct level of acidity was maintained. 2023 yields chez Coffinet-Duvernay were lower than elsewhere, around 45/50 hl/ha which Bastien puts down to the combative effect of having a lot of grass in the vines. As a result, these wines deliver an additional density rarely found in this enjoyable vintage. What makes them great is the exceptional sense of balance found in almost all of them. The wines are very true to their terroirs. Most of the wines had been racked to tank for bottling in December, a few were still in barrel, to be racked in December and bottled in February. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, December 2024
Dry whites
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessous, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Pale lemon yellow. The bouquet suggests weight but does not add other detail, as yet. Broader shouldered up front with a lemony note behind, satisfying and succulent but I think I shall prefer Masures when that settles down. Saline note to finish. Rebounds at the end. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted Oct 2024. 91-93 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Grands Clos 1er Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
An even mid yellow. This is another wine with a tannic touch, plus a slightly yellower fruit. Quite powerful on the palate, all a little bit unformed this early but with good potential. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted Oct 2024. 92-94 points. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Fairendes 1er Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
They are Chassagne end, homogenous plot. Pale lemon colour. Here the nose has a sense of lifted energy alongside then weight of Morgeot. Quintessence of Chassagne for Bastien and consistent every year. Ripe grapefruit and a texture which makes one salivate. Finesse too. Pretty spectacular potential. Drink from 2029-2040. Tasted Oct 2024. 93-96 points. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024 Star rating: 5
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Very much Caillerets style even if a touch lighter and fresher. More the feel of a limestone bench than stony. Builds the complexity on the second half of the palate. Rediscover the wine at the back. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted Oct 2024. 93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessus 1er Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Mid lemon yellow. A solid bouquet, one of the richer ones and showing the oak a touch more. Two plots, then this lovely minerality behind. This really has a great deal going on and keeps pushing further at the back of the palate. Bastien has loved this wine from the start” Its Blanchots’ turn this year”. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2024. 95-97 points. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024 Star rating: 5
2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Dent de Chien 1er Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Picked two days before the main crop, along with Bâtard, which doesn’t usually happen at the same time. One of the paler colours, the nose not yet quite in place, then a blinding and delicious minerality with pure white fruit which drives the finish. Startling and very persistent. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Oct 2024. 94-96 points. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024.
2023 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay
Mid lemon yellow. Here it is the weight of the appellation which takes the upper hand at the start, making quite a statement. One new barrel, and one 350 litre from one year old wood. The extra oak sits just fine with this wine. The fruit, tending towards the yellow plum, flows across the palate with weight and power yet also definition. Exactly what a top Bâtard should be, with no excess sucrosity. Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted Oct 2024. 96-98 points. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy, Dec 2024 Star rating: 5