Clos Thierrière

During the pandemic, twin brothers with a business background fell in love with winemaking under the tutelage of Vouvray legend Vincent Carême. And without further delay, Guillaume and Baptiste Frey, themselves from nearby Amboise, purchased 12 hectares of venerable vineyard parcels in the commune of Vernou-Sur-Brenne, just five kilometres upstream from the town of Vouvray itself. Moreover, their first few vintages have been remarkably successful, so much so that we are delighted to welcome Clos Thierrière to the Vintage & Vine portfolio.

‘Established in 2021 this small domaine is run by twins Baptiste and Guillaume Frey who were not born into a winemaking family but after working harvest in 2020 in Anjou decided to become vignerons and took over a domaine in the commune of Vernou sur Brenne to the east of Vouvray. Born locally in Amboise and having studied in Reims and in Paris, the brothers have 12 hectares of vines, most of which are situated either side of the Rue Neuve and are thus well back from the première côte in Vernou-sur-Brenne, which is east of the commune of Vouvray. There is a small parcel near the première côte, though, just above Vincent Carême’s Le Clos.

The soils are therefore predominantly clay and silty clay, with limestone elements less dominant. The viticultural philosophy centres around sustainability and the new watchword in viticulture, biodiversity (apologies if you were expecting me to say ‘regenerative’). Having previously been managed using conventional methods, Baptiste and Guillaume brought the use of herbicides and pesticides to a halt in 2021. They will take this further, but at the moment it is too early to discuss organic certification.

The fruit is picked by machine or by hand into small 10-kilogram trays, before being brought down the road to the cellars on the Rue Neuve, close to the cellars of Christophe Gaudron and Vincent Carême. In fact the road is, as you might expect, bristling with cellars and vignerons’ houses. In the Frey cellars the fruit is fashioned into a number of cuvées, the vinifications taking place in stainless steel or fibreglass cuves, with limited use of oak for the élevage of just one cuvée, although this is all set to change in the coming years as the brothers equip their cellars with equipment more to their taste. The approach to sulphites is one of restricted use, aiming for perhaps 50 mg/l free sulphites, although ideally the level should be “as low as possible.”

The entry-level is Prémices, a machine-picked cuvée fermented in a mix of stainless steel and fibreglass cuves, and fermented by indigenous yeasts. This latter aspect of their approach is universal throughout the portfolio. Les Pleurs is an assemblage of different parcels, bringing together fruit from limestone, clay and flint, the vines being on average thirty years of age, and it is named for the tears of sap that weep from the vines as the weather warms, heralding the arrival of spring.

Three cuvées parcellaires follow, starting with Sang de Roche, from vines on the left-hand side (as you ascend the road) of the Rue Neuve in the lieu-dit of Les Pierres Rousses. Here they have 1.5 hectares of vines on soils of clay and flint. Rather than name it for the lieu-dit, the cuvée’s name references the vines ability to express the mineral component of the soils. The fruit is picked by hand and vinified in fibreglass cuve. Pétrichor comes from vines on red clay in the lieu-dit of Les Perruches (in Vernou-sur-Brenne, not the famed première côte lieu-dit exploited by Philippe Foreau). This too is vinified in fibreglass, with a plan to shift to cement in the 2023 vintage. Finally there is Les Murs, which is hand-picked fruit vinified in cuve but aged in barrel; this comes from 0.9 hectare of vines in the parcel above Le Clos.

One thing I note is that none of the cuvées parcellaires reference the true Clos des Thierrières, which is a little further along the Rue Neuve, and one of the appellation’s historic clos the existence of which can be traced back into the last century (and probably beyond) when it was favoured by the Dutch merchants who were so active in the appellation. This is something I will have to raise with the frères Frey next time I catch up with them.

For the moment, then, this remains an interesting new addition to the Vouvray wine scene, and certainly a domaine worth watching.’ Chris Kissack, The Wine Doctor, October 2023.

Sparkling Wine

2021 Vouvray Brut Quietude Brut Nature (disgorged September 2023)
A small gastronomic sparkling cuvée made from purchased fruit from 30 year-old vines in the Vallée des Quarts lieu dit in Vernou. Here, the sandy soil brings a silky finesse to the wine, which has been vinified in stainless steel for this first vintage. After tirage the wine was matured for 24 months sur-lattes before disgorgement with zero dosage.

The wine shows a very fine bead, with fresh citrus, pear and apple fruit flavours along with hints of brioche autolysis character. Finishing long, crisp and dry, this is a perfect aperitif, that also has the capacity to partner dishes throughout the meal.

For the 2024 vintage, Guillaume vinified the base wines with indigenous yeast in oak barrels and is planning for 48 months maturation on lees, perhaps longer.

Dry whites

These dry wines of the domaine are notable for a floral citrus oil lift to the aromas and flavours making them very distinct.

2023 Vouvray sec Les Pleurs
This is the representative wine of the vintage, coming as it does from a total of three hectares across several different terroirs (flint/clay/limestone/silt) in Vernou-sur-Brenne. The vines average 30 years of age and the fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, followed by seven months maturation in tank on fine lees. Bottled March 2024.
12.6 % alc/vol, 5.4 g/L TA, 2.5 g/L RS.

Citrus oil aromas overlay classic pear and apple notes with purity and precision giving great clarity to the pristine fruit. Dry yet gently textural on the palate with a silky feel and hints of chalk with admirable depth and finesse to the apple and orchard fruit aromas and flavours finishing long with elegance and finesse. Very attractive drinking now and should age effortlessly for several years. But why wait?

Les Pleurs is named for the tears of sap that weep from the vines as the weather warms, heralding the arrival of spring.

2022 Vouvray sec Sang de Roche (lieu-dit Pierre Rousses)
From a single plot of more than 1.5 hectares on flinty-clay soils in the lieu-dit Pierre Rousses. The vines here are about 30 years of age and the fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, followed by seven months maturation in tank on fine lees. Bottled 29 March 2023, with less than 2 g/L of residual sugar.
13.5 % alc/vol, 5.5 g/L TA, 1.9 g/L RS.

‘From a 1.6-hectare parcel of vines in Les Pierres Rousses, the vines rooted in flinty soils over deeper limestone. It was vinified in fibreglass cuve and is due to be bottled in March 2023. It is vinified dry, with less than 1 g/l residual sugar. I find a charming and fragrant nose, with traces of orange zest. The palate is gently textural, with threads of green apple and pear, a chalky freshness and good acidity for the vintage. I find a nice energy to this, along with a lightly peppery note, all gently perfumed with lime blossom and white flowers. The alcohol is said to be about 13.5%.’ (89-91) points, Chris Kissack, Wine Doctor, October 2023.

In future this wine will be aged in large oak. Baptiste describes this cuvée as ‘very straight, more acidity - direct to the soil’.

2022 Vouvray sec Petrichor (lieu-dit Les Perruches)
From three neighbouring plots totalling one hectare on red clay soils in the lieu-dit Les Perruches. The vines here are about 40 years of age and the fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, followed by seven months maturation in tank on fine lees. Bottled 29 March 2023, with less than 2 g/L of residual sugar.
13.9 % alc/vol, 5.3 g/L TA, 0.9 g/L RS.

‘The vines are close to the première côte, on clay soils above Le Clos. This was vinified in fibreglass. I find dried citrus fruits on the nose, with a finely grained mineral substance, and plenty of crushed flint and gunpowder minerality. It feels a touch reductive, a characteristic which shapes the nose at the moment. The palate shows a charming sinew and a polished substance, with fresh and vibrant acidity, admirable for the vintage, which gives it great energy into the finish. Very fine potential here, so I look forward to revisiting this after bottling. The alcohol is said to be about 13.5%.’ (90-92) points, Chris Kissack, Wine Doctor, October 2023.

The red clay soil reveals itself in a denser palate with real substance, finishing longer than the Sang de Roche. Historically known as Les Perruches, this plot is now called Petrichor, in reference to the smell of the clay soil after rain.

2021 Vouvray sec Les Murs (lieu-dit La Folliere)
From a small plot, less than one hectare, on very thin soil directly over tuffeau limestone in the lieu-dit of La Follière. The vines here are 80-100 years old and worked only by horse. The fruit is whole-bunch pressed and wild-yeast fermented in fibreglass tank to virtual dryness, then transferred to a mix of seasoned oak barriques and larger formats for 20 months maturation. Bottled in May 2023.

Youthful and restrained this cuvee willl benefit from further ageing and is destined for a long lafe given careful cool cellaring. This limestone terroir brings freshness and structure to the notable depth of beautiful old vines fruit. Hints of citrus blossom, beeswax and taut green apple fruit that wants time to evolve and express. A White Burgundy glass is recommended for this.

Les Murs is named for the tuffeau walls that are visible when you are on the plot and looking west at one of the appellation's hillsides.