Arnaud Lambert

‘While Rougeard’s work draws comparisons to Bordeaux, it really is that more complicated Burgundian model—vinifying individual parcels of both red and white, and striving to understand the differences—that captivates Saumur’s current pioneers, who’ve seen the opportunity to follow in Rougeard’s wake. For Lambert, it’s a matter of delineating the clear line between his easygoing, citrusy Clos David, grown on a sandy northeast-facing plot in Brézé, and his intensely herbal, fleshy Clos de la Rue, grown just a few hundred yards away on clay.

Historically, Saumur or more precisely Brézé, has been a reference point for fine French wine as royalty exchanged these wines annually for Château d’Yquem Sauternes. Such has been the reknown for the magnificent hill of Brézé over the centuries, and once again attention is turning to this great hill as a source of incomparable whites that are often compared with Montrachet the greatest of white Burgundies. Brézé is a unique site due to its relatively high elevation and eminently nuanced geological profile with its limestone subsoil proving to be perfectly suited to Chenin blanc for much of the site. The significant presence of tuffeau, (a porous, chalky limestone also used in the construction of much of the Loire’s Renaissance architecture) results in finely mineral Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Clay and sand also lend themselves to the diversity of the terroirs, giving body to the reds and richness to the whites. Arnaud’s driving ambition is to truly understand and reveal the distinctions within this extraordinary appellation.

Arnaud Lambert is helping to discover the expression and diversity of soils and individual sites (terroirs) in the appellations of Saumur and Saumur-Champigny. The goal is to give expression to each individual terroir and realise each vineyard sites potential through organic viticulture (transitioning to bio-dynamic) and minimal intervention wine-making. Even though he works a total of 40 ha of vineyards in these 2 villages, the local cooperatives control nearly 70% of the surface area in Brézé and Saint Cyr and mass-produced crémants still dominate the region.

2017 marked an exciting transition for Arnaud’s estate when he united his cuvées from both Brézé (20ha) and Saint Cyr en Bourg (20ha) under one label: Domaine Arnaud Lambert. The Saint Cyr wines come from Domaine Saint-Just, which was founded by Arnaud’s father Yves in 1996 when Arnaud was still getting his viticulture and oenology degree. Arnaud studied wine-making in Dijon and has bought that Burgundian approach to his wine-making and to expressing each vineyard site. The father/son team began working together in 2005, and in 2009, they also became managers of the viticultural estate of the Château de Brézé signing a long-term lease which included land in 8 of the clos of Brézé, very old vineyards, each with different soil compositions and site expositions. (The château is not only a UNESCO World Heritage site, but also an historically important reference in French fine wine: royals used to exchange these wines annually for Château d’Yquem Sauternes.) The same year they began to work the Château vines, Yves and Arnaud also began converting all of their vineyards to organic, and were officially certified organic in 2012. In 2018 Arnaud has begun converting all vineyards to bio-dynamic viticulture after working in this way for some years.

Most significantly Arnaud feels that in more recent vintages he has really found the right balance and expression for the varieties planted in each site after working with these vineyards for 15+ years. Our tasting certainly confirmed that the wines, both red and white, have also found their right expression and impressed us with the clarity and precision demonstrated in each wine from each site. There is most certainly a lightness of touch with no hand of the winemaker apparent in the style of the wines, rather a clarity and purity for all the wines that one finds only rarely amongst the very best wine growers. Most of the red wines are vinified with no SO2 and bottled with just the smallest amount to ensure stability. Here terroir speaks very clearly.

Saint Cyr en Bourg is the neighbouring village just north of Brézé which lies mid-way between the village of Chacé where Clos Rougeard has their famed Le Bourg vineyard. Typically Saint Cyr en Bourg has slightly richer red clay soils in some parts still with a limestone base. These soils are often better suited to Cabernet Franc with some exceptions which have more prominent limestone making those parcels more suitable to Chenin Blanc. The reds wines from Saint Cyr can be labelled Saumur-Champigny as this village lies within that appellation, however the hill of Breze is just outside of that appellation and so the wines carry the shorter Saumur name as do the whites of Saint Cyr en Bourg as the Saumur-Champagny appellation is just for red wines not white.

In 2019 Arnaud has also started work on a number of vineyards in Montsoreau near the Chateau of Montsoreau located high above the Loire river on a rocky outcrop in the far east of the appellation close to the border with Chinon. Arnaud is clearly dedicated to showcasing the great terroirs of Saumur and that journey is still very young. This is a journey well worth following - and getting on board now not only gives you a cheap ticket but access to some of the Loire’s most exciting Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc terroirs. The French wine press is well on-board for these wines having seen the progression every vintage and now the English and American press are just beginning to “discover” these wines so the wines are not yet widely reviewed and so the value for all these wines is quite outstanding.

Sparkling wine

Cremant de Loire NV
Made from 90% Chenin Blanc and 10% Chardonnay in the methode traditionelle with 24 months ageing sur latte and bottled with low dosage of just 5g/l. This is made from the 'coeur de presse' (heart of the press juice which has the purest expression of fruit). Dry and vinous on the palate and fresh and lively, a perfect aperitif style.

Dry whites

2022 Les Parcelles Chenin vdf (blanc)
100% Chenin Blanc from a selection of small holdings just north of Breze in the neighbouring village of Saint Cyr en Bourg on sandy clay soil over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed, the free-run juice is fermented with natural yeast and no added SO2 in stainless steel tank. Matured on fine lees for about five months, with partial malolactic conversion. Attractive pure and primary chenin fruit vinified totally dry with ample body to the palate supported by good acidity giving a wine of surprising texture and immediate pleasure. Un-fined, filtered at bottling.

2021 Les Perrieres Saumur Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg (blanc) 750ml + 1500ml
From vines averaging 65 years old on clayey-sandy silt over limestone. Vinified with indigenous yeast after separating free run juices and matured for 12 months, half in older barriques (3-5 year-old) and half in foudres. Shows a very clear expression of fruit with barrel-ferment notes adding complexity to the fresh, long and concentrated finish. Un-fined, filtered at bottling.
In the glass the 2021 Saumur Blanc Les Perrières from Arnaud Lambert possesses a pale straw hue, and it presents a surprisingly concentrated nose (from this cooler vintage) of confit fruits, all orange and dried apricot, perhaps lightly polished by the oak, but sprinkled with crushed limestone and overlaid with an attractive reductive character. It continues in this fresh and bright vein on the palate, showing salty and cool, with a delicate sense of construct, supporting savoury fruit and a sinewy texture through the middle. It remains appealingly bitter and cool through to the finish, which shimmers with citrus pith substance before a firm and delicately saline finish. This is a very fine example of Saumur Blanc, its character shaped by the limestone beneath the vines. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%. 92 points, thewinedoctor.com, May 2024.
The 2021 Saumur Champigny Les Perrieres displays a lightness of touch. With a low pH, this dry Chenin is pure and precise. Fermented in foudres and older barrels over ten months, subtle pastry flavors join the quince-like and citrus fruit. While delicate it blossoms in the mouth befoe concluding with a fine line of tantalizing acidity. 91 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, June 2023.

2020 Coulee de St Cyr Saumur Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg (blanc)
From 1.7ha of vines averaging 70 years old on about 30 cm of sandy-clayey silt over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed and vinified with indigenous yeast and aged on fine lees for 12 months in a combination of new and 1-3 year-old barriques.
The wine is then returned to tank for another 8 months of ageing on fine lees. Fine and elegant with an expansive palate, finishing long and complex. A beautifully executed Burgundian analogue. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
2021 review The 2021 Saumur Blanc Coulée de Saint-Cyr is a tight, pure, citrus-driven Chenin Blanc, with time in barrel and partial malolactic adding roundness and curving the vintage's natural angularity. Bone-dry and saline, nectarine fruit meets with a toasty, festive, spiced barrel element that needs time to settle and further integrate, but I'm not worried by this. The 2021 is an edgy, nervous wine, but it has length, line and concentration that will see it evolve and improve with bottle age. Textural and long through the finish, this is quietly impressive. 93 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, May 2024.

2022 Midi Saumur Brézé (blanc) 750ml + 1500ml
From his largest single holding of 3.5 ha of south-east facing vines planted in 1985 on sandy clay over limestone. Vinification using no SO2 in stainless steel tank for 75% and 25% in ceramic eggs with indigenous yeast and no malolactic. Bottled in March 2023 this shows excellent freshness and precision in a pure fruit-forward expression of chenin in its most pure state. Very attractive and approachable right away. Un-fined, but filtered at bottling.

2021 David Saumur Brézé (blanc) 750ml
100% Chenin Blanc from a 1.3 ha north-east facing site planted in 1965 on medium sandy silt over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed, the free-run juice is fermented with natural yeast in 50% in foudres and 50% in barrel (2-3 year-old) of which about 15% are new, and matured on fine lees for 12 months. Blended and further matured in tank for six months. Fine and discreet, yet a notable step up in complexity and depth. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered. Outstanding focus and freshness in this 2019 vintage.
The 2021 Saumur Champigny Clos David is a tranquil and calm Chenin, bringing silken flesh around its tangy acid backbone. Attractive nectarine, ripe apple and citrus aromas are joined by a subtle pastry character from 10 months on lees and a lick of cream from partial malo. 92 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, June 2023.

2018 Clos David Saumur Brézé (blanc) 3000ml + 1500ml
100% Chenin Blanc from a 1.3 ha north-east facing site planted in 1965 on medium sandy silt over limestone. Whole-bunch pressed, the free-run juice is fermented with natural yeast in 50% in foudres and 50% in barrel (2-3 year-old) of which about 15% are new, and matured on fine lees for 12 months. Blended and further matured in tank for six months. Fine and discreet, yet a notable step up in complexity and depth. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
‘The 2018 Saumur Brézé Clos David opens with surprisingly fresh and leafy/vegetal bouquet of ripe fruits, lemon and limestone as well as yeasty and tart notes. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, fruity, round and vital, finessed and pretty stimulating, persistently salty Chenin with fine grip and a promising finish. This Saumur definitely needs more time to please than the delicate and frisky Clos de la Rue. Tasted in April 2021.’ 92 points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, October 2021.

2020 La Rue Saumur Brézé (blanc)
From a 2 ha south facing site planted half 1965 and half 1990 on sandy silt over limestone. Vinified with indigenous yeast 50% in aged foudres and 50% in barrel (35% new) and aged for 2 years on fine lees. Malo is blocked naturally due to low pH (about 3.0) and aged for 12 months on fine lees. Here the wine shows virtually no impact from the extended oak ageing or the new oak, such is the strength of the fruit it shows excellent integration and comfortably rides above the elevage. This shows notable acid freshness (no male in this vintage) giving great length and shape on the palate. Very long with terrific complexity and ageing potential. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
2021 review The 2021 Saumur Blanc La Rue is a light-bodied, delicate style with bright freshness alongside a little creaminess from malolactic fermentation (which is unusual for Lambert). There's innate power within its delicate core, providing line and salinity as it goes straight like a runaway through the mouth. It holds the palate firm on the finish with scents of spice and peach. 91 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, May 2024.

2018 Clos de la Rue Saumur Brézé (blanc) - 1500ml
From a 2 ha south facing site planted half 1965 and half 1990 on sandy silt over limestone. Vinified with indigenous yeast 50% in aged foudres and 50% in barrel (35% new) and aged for 2 years on fine lees. Malo is blocked naturally due to low pH (about 3.0) and aged for 12 months on fine lees. Here the wine shows virtually no impact from the extended oak ageing or the new oak, such is the strength of the fruit it shows excellent integration and comfortably rides above the elevage. This shows notable acid freshness giving great length and shape on the palate. Very long with terrific complexity and ageing potential. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
The straw-yellow 2018 Saumur Brézé Clos de la Rue opens with an intense and yeasty bouquet of ripe white-seed fruits, such as pears and star fruit, as well as notes of potted ginger, honey and a hint of light caramel and oak. Round and juicy yet also very fine and elegant on the palate, this is an intense and textural yet finessed, very long and tensioned Chenin from 30- to 35-year-old vines on the calcareous sand and limestone soils from Brézé's Clos de la rue, a monopole of the domaine. Pretty Burgundian in style yet fruitier, it's perfect for Riesling lovers who can't afford great Burgundies and would like to meet something different yet with a French accent. Stimulatingly pure and salty on the aromatic finish. 92+ points, Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate, October 2021.

2020 Bourguenne Saumur Brézé (blanc)
100% Chenin Blanc from a tiny 0.30 hectare holding planted on sand over limestone facing east on the hill of Breze and located beside one of the small holdings of Clos Rougeard. Whole bunch pressed with natural yeast and aged in barrel (new and one year old from 3 different barrel cooperages) for 24 months without malo and given an extra 12 months in bottle before release. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.
2016 review The 2016 Saumur Blanc Brézé Bourguenne is a powerful, firm, salty wine that's almost a meal in itself. At eight years old, it's still youthful with fresh nectarine and nutty characters. The entire wine is carried along on a line of acidity and salinity. It's like an airplane taking off from the mid-palate for an uplifting finish. 91 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, May 2024.

+ occasionally a tiny quantity of the rarely made sweet white Coteaux de Saumur

2001 Cuvée Moïse Coteaux de Saumur (sweet white) 750 ml - NEW ARRIVAL
This comes from a selection of botrytis affected grapes from 70 yo vines in the village of Saint Cyr en Bourg. Here the topsoil is a clayey-sandy silt over tuffeau limestone, producing wines of finesse and elegance. The wine carries a moderately sweet 120 g/L of residual sugar, balanced by lively acidity and is perfectly balanced and drinking beautifully now.
The nose of the 2001 Cuvée de Moïse does indeed appear to be driven by noble rot, with layers of caramelised peach, toast, liquorice and praline. Aromatically this feels much more like a wine of the Layon than of Saumur, and the 120 g/l residual sugar is in keeping with this; most examples of Coteaux de Saumur possess a rather nervy character, more akin to a moelleux cuvée from Vouvray than to a richer Coteaux du Layon. There follows a polished and creamed palate, with rich liquid caramel flavours offset by a fine Chenin bitterness. It has a liquoreux level of richness and texture, full in the mouth and rather blunt in style; it has sweetness, charm and character, but what it misses are the more mineral notes, which is often the problem with liquoreux cuvées, and – perhaps more surprising, especially for the vintage – it is a little shy on the acidity side as well. But it has richness and density on its side, and will no doubt win some friends; if you are one of them, I still suggest you pour it a little on the cool side. 90/100 thewinedoctor.com, November 2024

2009 Or de Brézé Coteaux de Saumur Brézé (sweet white) 500 ml - SOLD OUT
Tiny production of this golden, vibrant, late harvest Chenin blanc (127 g/l residual sugar) from 30 year old vines giving a yield of just 10 hl/ha. Aged for 24 months in new oak and then a further 12 months in stainless steel. Carried by very good acidity and shows lots of life and ageing potential this is also drinking exceptionally well now. A very rare sweet wine of Saumur, produced only in the very best vintages.

Dry reds

Lambert’s attention to detail regarding his Cabernet Franc is impressive, and the wines are continually improving. Lambert now works by infusion, vinifying the reds like whites with just one pump over a day. His earlier-drinking wines include Terres Rouges and Clos Mazurique, and in 2022, the Terres provide a soft, ripe yet fresh style, while the 2021s are much more aromatic and floral with less body. Things really start getting interesting with the Montée des Roches, Clos de l’Etoile and Clos Moleton cuvées, and the 2020s are substantial in terms of density and tannin. Lambert shows a sensitive hand when it comes to oak and captures ripeness without opulence.  Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, January 2024.

2022 Mazurique Saumur Brézé (rouge)
100% Cabernet Franc from a 3.7 ha west facing site on silty clay over Turonian limestone on the southern side of Brézé planted in 1990. 100% de-stemmed and fermented with partial whole berries with indigenous yeast in concrete tank for 5 months with a very gentle maceration using infusion and no pump overs. Very expressive and perfumed and made in pure juicy and early drinking style. Very fresh and fine with lovely light texture and very little tannin this is a perfect wine for spring and summer and early drinking. Super attractive and great drinking and refreshment even in the warmer months. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.

2020 Tue Loup Saumur Brézé (rouge)
100% Cabernet Franc from a 2 ha site planted 1995 on sandy silt over limestone in the south-eastern sector of Brézé. 100% de-stemmed and fermented with indigenous yeast this has a very gentle vinification using maceration with no pump overs. In 2020 10% of this cuvee is matured in a concrete egg and 30% in concrete tank and 60% in 2-3 year-old barriques for 12 months, then blended and further matured in stainless steel tank for six months and aged an additional 12 months in bottle before release. Very fresh fine and expressive yet also quite restrained. Would benefit from decanting to show its best, this has obvious ageing potential. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.

2021 Terres Rouges Saumur Champigny Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg
100% Cabernet Franc from vines averaging 45 years old planted on clayey-sandy silt over limestone (90cms below) with a warmer west facing exposition. 100% de-stemmed and fermented with partial whole berries with indigenous yeast in tank after separating free run and press juices with no SO2 for ageing and just 1 mg SO2 at bottling after 8 months in tank. Very fleshy and perfumed yet fine. Gives immediate pleasure with ripe expressive red fruits showing very good depth and complexity. Pure pleasure and a joy to drink young. Bottled un-fined and unfiltered.

2020 Montees des Roches Saumur Champigny Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg
’The Saumur Champigny Montée des Roches is grown on a shallow layer of clay over limestone, and the clay component brings a touch of flesh to this otherwise light-bodied wine. In the 2020, you can expect fine purity of sweet raspberry fruit and a hint of pepper and spice. The finish offers excellent refreshment and a fine chalky texture. Tasted from barrel; there is also a concrete egg component that will be included in the final wine. To be released circa December 2022.’ (92-94) points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, August 2021.

2019 Clos Moleton Saumur Champigny Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg
100% Cabernet Franc from vines averaging more than 40 years old planted on sandy-clayey silt over Turonian Superior limestone (30 cm below) on the western side of the Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg town with a slightly south-west facing exposition. 100% de-stemmed and fermented with indigenous yeast in tank after separating free run and press juices with no SO2 for ageing and just 35 ppm SO2 at bottling after 18-24 months of ageing in barrels (30% new and 70% 1 to 2 years old) then moved to tank for 8 months of blending. Very deep and complex aromas with the palate offering spicy, deep and perfumed fruit with very fine tannins and excellent freshness. Bottled un-fined and un-filtered.

’The 2019 is a ripe yet balanced style offering the light to medium-weight style that is so classic of Saumur-Champigny. Clos Moleton is a terroir made of clay over limestone. The silken, soft, roumdness of clay shows on the mid-palate but the limestone bedrock is just 60cm below the surface. The tannins provide a mass of finely textured chalkiness. Young, primary in style with a fine line of acidity that acts like an arrow through the mouth carrying the black cherry, raspberry, olive tapenade and rosemary-like fragrance on and on. Far too young to drink, give this at least 5 years but based on this site's history, best consumed at 8-20 years.’ 95 points, Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous, June 2022.

2019 Clos de L’Étoile Saumur Brézé - VERY LIMITED
100% Cabernet Franc from a 1.8 ha site planted 1990 on clayey-sandy silt over limestone located on the south-eastern side of Brézé. 100% de-stemmed and natural-yeast fermented with gentle maceration by infusion and aged on lees in 4 barrels (25% new and 75% 1 and 2 year old barrels) and 1 ceramic egg for 24 months with no S02 until bottling with no fining or filtration and aged for a further year in bottle before release. Brilliant wine in 2019. Lots of energy, clean and pure with great depth and freshness and salinity and minerality. Will age beautifully if you can keep your hands off it.

2020 Clos de L’Étoile Saumur Brézé - due 2025
The 2020 Clos de l’Etoile is perhaps the most powerful of the single vineyard Cabernet Francs, due to the clay and silex component that lies over the chalky soils. There’s a breadth here and a power that speaks of its place. Abundant chalky tannin offers grip. (90-92) points, Rebecca Gibb M.W., Vinous Media, August 2021.