Serge Dagueneau et filles: Pouilly Fume (Loire)
This branch of the Dagueneau family headed by father Serge own 17 hectares of old vineyards across several of the prime sites of the appellation based in Saint Andelain. Now run by daughter Valerie who is a cousin of Didier, their father Serge helps with vineyard work leaving winemaking to the youngest daughter Valerie.
While the calcareous soil in the vineyards give the wines ample structure and the ability to age for five or more years, the vineyards of Poiully Fume typically have more clay and depth than the poorer more chalky soils of neighbouring Sancerre. This is particularly so in the prime area of Saint Andelain where most of the families vineyard holding are located. This results in wine’s showing a clarity and intensity of varietal sauvignon blanc flavour with more texture and generosity which gives the wine immediate appeal while also enabling them to age for 5 to 10 years as the wines take on a slightly honeyed richness more reminiscent of Burgundy origins.
The Dagueneau’s also have holdings in Pouilly sur Loire planted with 100% Chasselas which was planted just after phylloxera. This remarkable old vineyard of approximately 120 years age is located beside an original old Roman coble stone road leading through the vineyards heading towards Paris. These prime vineyard sites located so close to the Loire have been producing for hundreds if not thousands of years rewarding travelers with these wonderfully refreshing wines.
Following notes from Jacqueline Freidrich.com (author of A Wine Guide to the Loire and The Wines of France: the essential guide for savvy shoppers)
“Serge always made brawny, flavorful, characterful Pouillys. This is still the case. Not a style that appeals to everyone, they are always honest, true to the appellation and to the vintage and faultless. There’s definitely a “there” there. I like them a lot. If ever you need convincing that chasselas has its rightful place in the vineyards of Pouilly, taste here. Dagueneau’s chasselas vines are over 100 years old. Vines are replaced by marcottage. (Thus far, phylloxera has not been a problem.) The 2008, tasted in the summer of 2010, was a delightfully fresh and textured weave of apricot, minerals, nougat with a light saline edge. Always less alcoholic than Pouilly Fume, it weighed in at 11.8 degrees but felt and tasted ample. Superb.”
2014 Pouilly sur Loire (100% Chasselas from vines aged more than 110 years old)
Restrained and racy with intriguing notes of anise and almost briny oyster shell minerality on the super sleek and delicately sculpted palate.
“Dagueneau also makes incredible Pouilly‐sur‐Loire, you’ll never taste better.” Jacqueline Freidrich ‐ A wine and food guide to the Loire
2012 Pouilly Fumé (100% Sauvignon Blanc)
“..an excellent bottle, offering up a refined and utterly classic nose of sweet grapefruit, orange, flinty soil tones, cut grass, green apple and just a hint of pepper. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and zesty, with a vibrant core of fruit, lovely soil signature and fine cut and grip on the long and bouncy finish. Just a classic bottle of fine Pouilly-Fumé. 2013-2018. 92.” John Gilman View from the Cellar June 2013
2011 Pouilly Fumé Clos des Chadoux (100% Sauvignon Blanc)
The fruit for this wine is hand harvested from a 1.5ha parcel of 45 year old vines grown on clay/chalk “terres blanches” and Kimmeridgian marls. The fruit is fully destemmed and is allowed to macerate on skins for 10-12 hours. Made solely in stainless steel it is left to mature on lees (stirred weekly) for 8 months before racking and maturing for a further 16 months. The wine is unfiltered. “The Chadoux bottling from the Dagueneaus is a single vineyard bottling made from a parcel of forty-eight year-old vines. The 2011 is a lovely wine, with a more mature bou-quet than the 2012 les Pentes, which is comprised of scents of orange, pink grapefruit, plenty of grassiness, a touch of Chartreuse-like herb tones and a lovely base of flinty soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and nicely tertiary, with lovely framing acids, fine mid-palate intensity and fine length and grip on the wide open and classy finish. Good juice. 2013-2016. 91+.” John Gilman View from the Cellar June 2013