Serge Dagueneau & Filles Loire Valley, France.
This branch of the Dagueneau family headed by father Serge is based in Saint Andelain and owns 17 hectares of old vineyards across several of the prime sites of the appellation. Today the estate is run by Serge’s daughter Valerie, a cousin of the late Didier Dagueneau, though Serge still helps out in the vineyard.
While the calcareous soil in the vineyards give the wines ample structure and the ability to age for five or more years, the vineyards of Poiully Fume typically have more clay and depth than the poorer more chalky soils of neighbouring Sancerre. This is particularly so in the prime area of Saint Andelain where most of the family’s vineyard holdings are located.
Here the wines still show clear and intense varietal Sauvignon Blanc character but the heavier soil adds texture and generosity to the palate. Whilst this does give them immediate appeal, with 5 to 10 years bottle age they take on a honeyed richness reminiscent of white Burgundy.
The Dagueneaus also have an old 100% Chasselas vineyard in Pouilly-sur-Loire which was planted just after phylloxera struck in the late nineteenth century. Located beside an old Roman cobblestone road on the route to Paris, this remarkable vineyard is now over 120 years old.
These prime vineyard sites located so close to the Loire have been rewarding travelers with wonderfully refreshing wines for many hundreds, if not thousands, of years.
‘Dagueneau also makes incredible Pouilly-sur-Loire, you’ll never taste better.’
Jacqueline Freidrich, A Wine And Food Guide To The Loire.
2015 Pouilly-sur-Loire La Centenaire
100% Chasselas from vines planted 1895.
‘The 2015 Pouilly-sur-Loire La Centenaire offers a very clear and subtle, floral rather than fruity bouquet with ripe apple aromas. Medium-bodied, finesse-full and elegant, this is a stunning, delicate Chasselas with great finesse and a stimulating lightness but also mineral background. The finish is clear, dry, piquant and fresh, and displays ripe apple flavors again. An excellent, lovely pure Pouilly-sur-Loire. Drink 2016-2022’ 89 points, Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com, October 2016.
2015 Pouilly Fumé (375ml)
100% Sauvignon Blanc.
‘The 2015 Pouilly-Fumé Tradition offers a very clear and aromatic nose with yellow stone fruit aromas (peaches, apricots and mangos) and some subtle spicy flavors. Full-bodied, elegant and juicy, this is a pretty accessible yet stimulatingly piquant and mineral Pouilly; it has finesse and a nice phenolic grip in the salty finish. Very good, though still young. Drink 2017-2021.’ 89 points, Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com, October 2016.
2014 Pouilly Fumé (750ml)
100% Sauvignon Blanc.
‘The 2014 Pouilly Fume from Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Filles is a lovely and classic bottle of Pouilly Fumé, wafting from the glass in an exuberant aromatic blend of lime, gooseberry, damp grass, a touch of melon, white flowers and a lovely base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, crisp and quite wide open and succulent out of the blocks, with a fine core, vibrant acids, and fine focus and grip on the long and perfectly balanced finish. A lovely bottle of Pouilly-Fumé with plenty of upfront personality. Drink 2015-2018.’ 91 points, John Gilman, View from the Cellar, June 2015.
2015 Pouilly Fumé Clos des Chadoux
100% Sauvignon Blanc, hand harvested from a 1.5ha parcel of 45 year-old vines grown on clay/chalk ‘terres blanches’ and Kimmeridgian marls. The fruit is fully destemmed and is kept on skins for 10-12 hours. Made solely in stainless steel it is left to mature on lees (stirred weekly) for 8 months before racking and maturing for a further 16 months.
‘The citrus-colored 2015 Pouilly-Fumé Clos des Chaudoux is very clear, intense and precise on the nose where flinty flavors intermix with white fruits and lemony flavors. Creamy and nobly elegant on the palate, this is a superbly balanced Pouilly with a subtle, well integrated acidity and a lingering, very juicy but well structured finish. The finish is excellent and really stimulating in its refreshing purity and salinity. Drink 2016-2021.’ 90 points, Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com, October 2016.