Pierre de la Grange:Muscadet (Loire Valley)

The man in charge of one of the leading domaines of the Nantais, Pierre Luneau-Papin, hails from a long line of vignerons. The Luneau family is well established in the region; their presence here may be traced as far back as the late 17th Century and Pierre Luneau is the thirteenth generation of his family to bear the name Pierre. Pierre and Monique, his wife, are the seventh generation of vignerons to run Domaine Pierre de la Grange, which was founded by Pierre’s forebears in the 18th Century. Muscadet savants will know, however, that that wines are more likely to be found listed under Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate’s true name of Pierre de la Grange.

 Having studied at Briacé and gained experience with Emile Peynaud and Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, both of the Faculty of Oenology at the University of Bordeaux, it is perhaps no surprise that Luneau-Papin is one of Muscadet’s leading lights. In his immaculate winery, Pierre proceeds to vinify in small batches according to the origin of the fruit. The harvest is done by hand, also a rarity in the region, to avoid any oxidation before pressing. There is an immediate light débourbage (separation of juice from gross lees), then a 4-week fermentation at 68 degrees, followed by 6 months of aging in stainless-steel vats on fine lees. This is the classic Muscadet-sur-lie process, where the wine is kept on its lees, with a fair amount of CO2 as protection, until bottling in the spring following the harvest. The only modern technique used here is macération pelliculaire (maceration of lightly crushed berries before pressing), which varies in proportion according to the cuvées.

 There are approximately 40 hectares of vines at Pierre’s disposal, with 38 hectares planted to Melon de Bourgogne located about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself. This is a landscape characterised by gently rolling vineyards and variable terroirs, which as well as the sandy soils which are perhaps the first to mind when thinking of the region, also include micaschist, gneiss and schist, and other sometimes exotic rocks of volcanic origin. The vines have a good age, forty-five years on average although some are well into their seventh decade.

White wine 100% Melon de Bourgogne

2010 Muscadet “vieilles vignes”
Fifty year old southwest facing vines grow on mica, schist, and gneiss. The soil imparts a particular mineral character to its structure. Perhaps with the exception of Champagne you will be hard pressed to find anything better to accompany oysters. It’s purity of flavour, lightness, and freshness also make it a superb aperitif. “Light with tangy lime, chive and salt notes that stay crisp on the finish” Wine Spectator

2009 Muscadet “Clos des Allees” vieilles vignes
This wine is made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne from old vines of more than 45 years. The vineyard is South facing of Le Landreau, planted on micaschist but is all from the single vineyard Clos des Allées. “The Luneau‐Papin 2009 Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Allées is uncommonly lush not to mention luscious for its genre, with scents of honeydew melon, mint and licorice setting the tone for the entire vinous performance. Fresh lime and salt enliven the palate while hints of nut oils and coffee add further richness. Yet for all of that richness, this wonderful value remains juicily, consummately refreshing as well as (at only 12% alcohol)light”. Robert Parker—The Wine Advocate #190 August, 2010

NV Luneau Brut
This wine is made from a blend of 40% Melon de Bourgogne, 30% Folle Blanche, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Blanc de Noir Cabernet all from old vines of more than 40 years. The vineyard is South facing of Le Landreau, planted on micaschist and on gneiss in Vallet. It is grown only using organic fertilisers. The wine is then stored sur lie (on lees) for a period of 5 months before being bottled for secondary fermentation. The wine then remains on lees for a further 18‐24 months before being disgorged.

 2011 Folle Blanche
This wine is made from 100% Folle Blanche from a tiny 3ha plantation on the stony schist soils around the village of Le Landreau. “Folle Blanche reminds us of the history of the Gros Plant in the Pays Nantais, which is such a good match with oysters” ‐ Pierre Luneau . “Very much in the style of the Nantais. Slightly salty, with a soft polish at the start though. Gentle, rounded, the acidity subtle and the palate feels harmonious as a result.” Wine Doctor March 2012

 2009 Muscadet Terre de Pierre de la Butte de la Roche
This wine is made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne from old vines planted in 1974. The vineyard is from the Loroux‐Bottereau village from a place called de la Butte de la Roche. The soils are a modified serpentinite of igneous origin dating back 500 million years. The wine is then stored sur lie (on lees) for a period of 12 months. All work in the cellar is designed to produce a wine that reflects the unique terroir of the Serpentinite. The pure minerality of this wine is a true expression of its terroir.

 2007 Muscadet Excelsior Vieilles Vignes Schistes de Goulaine
This wine is made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne from old vines of more than 65 years from sélection massale vines. The parcel of vines “la Plécisière” is located in the village of Chapelle‐Heulin on a bedrock of schist and micaschist facing due south. Yields are kept to a very small 35‐45hl/ha, all vines are hand harvested and sorted in the vineyard. The wine is pressed in a pneumatic press before simple cold clarification . The fermentation is maintained at 20°C for a period 0f several weeks, only using indigenous yeasts. The wine is then stored sur lie (on lees) for a period of 36 months.
“The 2007 Luneau‐Papin is a beautifully complex and suave bottle of Muscadet that is fully into its apogee of maturity and is drinking beautifully. The classy bouquet offers up a refined mélange of dried flowers, meyer lemon, bread fruit, wonderfully refined leesy tones and a fine base of soil. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and impressively complex, with superb midpalate depth, great elegance and focus, lovely, framing acids and most impressive length and grip on the wide open, discreet and classy finish. A beautiful bottle of Muscadet for drinking over the next several years. 2012‐2020. 93.” John Gilman—View from the Cellar, Jan‐Feb, 2012