Burklin-Wolf: Pfalz (Germany)
Superbly textured dry Rieslings classified according to vineyard site.
The Bűrklin-Wolf estate is based in the Mittelhaardt, the quality core of Germany’s world-renowned Pfalz, located about one hours drive to the north-east of Alsace.
Since the 2001 vintage Bűrklin-Wolf have classified their wines according to the vineyard site (similar to Burgundy) rather than sugar weight (as the 1971 German wine laws dictate). After exhaustive research they discovered that today’s top vineyards are exactly the same as those identified in the 1828 Bavarian Land Taxation Laws. This was a time when these vineyards produced some of the most expensive and highly regarded wines in the world. Aptly, the Pfalz Mittelhardt is the topographical and geological extension of France’s Côte d’Or and Alsace. The Mittelhardt’s best sites are similarly located within a very narrow, sheltered east-facing strip of land.
Bűrklin-Wolf wines are labelled G.C. for the top quality tier of wines and P.C. for the second tier. G.C. wines are produced from yields of less than 45 hl/ha and minimum 12.5% alcohol from vineyards rated first in the villages of Rupperstberg, Forst and Deidesheim according to the 1828 land tax laws. P.C. wines are produced from yields of less than 55 hl/ha and minimum alcohol of 11.5% from vineyards rated second in Ruppertsberg and first in Wachenheim. Grapes are harvested with Spatlese and Auslese levels of ripeness but are fermented to dryness. Since 1998 medium sweet wines are no longer produced by this estate.
Dry White Wines
2013 Riesling Dry – Stelvin closure
Pristine citric and stone‐fruit aromas with a touch of mineral on the nose, ample body and texture with fresh acidity in the mouth, a crisp middle and long dry finish, with a hint of spice. The perfect introduction to dry Pfalz Riesling.
2013 Riesling ‘Wachenheimer’ – Stelvin Closure
Benefiting from de‐classification of several of Burklin‐Wolf’s most prestigious sites, this is a classic Pfalz Riesling with depth of flavor, aromatic spice
and a soft, voluptuous dry finish. Originates from de‐classified P.C. vineyards.
2013 Riesling ‘Altenburg’ P.C.
This vineyard is located high on the slope with very little soil and excellent drainage giving a wine of real density with wonderful structure and finesse and great ageing capacity. Wonderful acidity giving a seemingly endless finish.
2013 Riesling ‘Gerumpel’ P.C. Very limited (i.e. less than 3 dozen available)
Located right beside the fabulous GC Pechstein vineyard, in fact part of Gerumpel was rated at the very highest level in the Royal Bavarian land tax laws of 1828. “Lemon, lime and a hint of flint on the fresh nose. Ample on the palate, with white fruit flavors joined by a saline quality on the persistently brisk finish.” Vinous Media March 2015
2012 Riesling ‘Gaisbohl’ G.C.
“Traditionally Forst and Deidesheim may have a bit more of a ring to their name than Ruppertberg, but the Gaisböhl shows no signs of an inferiority complex. The fruit on the nose comes across as a little greener with notions of gooseberry and melon, but the palate exhibits substance and opulence. This impressive demonstration of power is completed by more than just a hint of salty minerality.” 17.5/20 JancisRobinson.com
“This estate has consistently produced some of the finest dry rieslings of any given vintage from an incredible arsenal of excellent vineyards. One of the first estates in Germany to embrace biodynamic viticulture, Burklin-Wolf is now able give each wine its own voice, and in 2007 they all sang in perfect tune. There are few estates in the world that could match this performance-and then throw in excellent TBAs for good measure.”
Steve Tanzer Jan/Feb ‘09
2013 Riesling ‘Gaisbohl’ G.C. Very limited
“The fragrant Ruppertsberger Gaisbohl Riesling trocken GC has a ripe, almost raisin-fruit nose with some citric/mineral flavors. Very pure, mineral and firm on the palate, with citrus flavors and an animating salinity in the finish. 92” eRobertParker.com March 2014
2011 Riesling ‘Gaisbohl’ G.C.
“Hints of fennel and basil accent fresh apple and grapefruit in a lusciously fruited, silken-textured Burklin-Wolf 2011 Ruppertsberger Gaisbohl Riesling trocken GC that despite its low residual sugar in no way comes off as too-dry let alone austere. Smokiness of black tea and piquancy of apple and citrus pips add to the stimulation of a succulent and superbly sustained finish. This beauty should prove delightful to follow through at least 2020. 92” eRobertParker.com March 2014
2008 Riesling ‘Gaisbohl’ G.C. Very limited
“The tiny volume of 2008 Ruppertsberger Gaisbohl Riesling GC smells of green tea, fresh lime, and peach kernel. This displays palpable density with buoyancy in the best vintage man ner. A rather severe back-end concentration of citrus rind, crushed stone, and dusty pungency may partly reflect the legacy of hail that ravaged Ruppertsberg vineyards twice in a single season, but these characteristics are part and parcel of the wine’s formidable persistence. 90” Wine Advocate #Februaru 2010
2007 Riesling ‘Gaisbohl’ G.C. Very limited
“Features brown-spiced persimmon and peach, with pronouncedly chewy phenolics, herbal pungency, and fruit pit piquancy carrying into its finish. Fresh lime adds liveliness to this rather plushly-textured Riesling and palpably dense Riesling that ought to a decade or more of cellaring. 91” eRobertParker.com October 2009
KIRCHENSTUCK – from ‘The Finest Wines of Germany’ by Stephan Reinhardt
“There is no Riesling of similar weight and complexity with comparable elegance and finesse. The finish of this liquid monument is almost infinite, as is, perhaps, its longevity. However, great vintages such as 2002 or 2008 need almost ten years over which to reveal their true potential. This cru, which is supposed to be the most expensive vineyard in Germany, is just 9.1 acres (3.7ha) and the 1985 replanted share of Burklin-Wolf is 1.3 acres (0.54ha). The wine is, therefore, not only very rare but also quite expensive. It is, however, worth every cent.”
2011 Riesling ‘Kirchenstuck’ G.C. Very limited
“2011 Forster Kirchenstuck Riesling trocken GC proves surprisingly herbal and pungent as well as brightly citric. At 13% alcohol, it’s also – contrary to what I’d expect from this site – lower in alcohol than other wines of its collection. The decadence here is by way of faded iris and lily-of-the-valley and the animality by way of mouthwatering urchin roe shading toward a sweet-saline and otherwise mineral savor. Black tea smokiness, bite of white pepper, crushed stone and sizzling lemon rind combine for a piquantly gripping though still also refreshing finish. This should merit following through at least 2022 and hopefully well beyond. 92” eRobertParker.com March 2014