David Duband: Cotes du Nuits, Burgundy
Regarded as one of the rising stars of Burgundy, David Duband took over his family domaine a very young age and now has more than 20 vintages of experience behind him. Starting with very small family holdings David, together with his business partner Francois Feuillet, have added to his portfolio of wines through the purchase of some exceptional old Grand cru vineyards throughout Gevrey Chambertin and Morey St Denis.
In recent years David has adapted his work in both the vineyards and cellars and in the last few years is producing wines with not only remarkable finesse and detail but also exhilarating intensity and freshness. Working organically in the vineyards and with low, though safe, levels of S02 in the cellar he also uses a relatively high percentage of whole bunch ferment and a low percentage of new oak for ageing and this is adapted to each wine as it needs. This results in wines of striking purity with fabulous depth and intensity without sacrificing the details of the origins of each parcel of grapes. These are wines showing terroir and the soil signature of the fruit for each parcel above all else. These are wines that are built to age classically and gracefully.
2013 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits rouge – from 50+yo old vines owned by David’s family.
“A very fresh and perfumed nose displays notes of red cherry, floral and soft spice and earth wisps. There is good verve and volume to the delicious and lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess a lovely hint of salinity on the balanced finish that is built to reward a few years of cellaring. (85-87)/2017+” Burghound.com January 2015
15 barrels from 2 plots of vines located in “Les Barreaux” (about 90% of the blend) which borders Grand cru Richebourg and the great 1er cru Cros Parantoux, high on the slope above the village and from “Aux Ormes” (about 10% of the blend) which lies on the northern side of the village and further down-slope from Romanee St Vivant. Exceptional complexity and depth for villages level and will age superbly. “While this is also notably floral there is a much broader range of spice elements present on the elegant nose of raspberry, violet and pomegranate aromas. The suave, round and succulent medium weight flavors possess plenty of mid-palate stuffing before terminating in a rich if ever-so-mildly austere and firm finish that delivers excellent length for a villages level wine. Recommended. (89-91)/2020+” Burghound.com January 2015
2013 Gevrey Chambertin
From several parcels of old vines averaging 65yo located mostly north of Gevrey Chambertin with 10% coming from closer to Morey St Denis below the village. Vinified with about 50% whole bunch and aged in 30% new oak, 70% older oak. “This is also markedly floral with a very fresh nose of red berry liqueur-like aromas that are liberally laced with earth scents. There is excellent volume to the suave and very round medium-bodied flavors that display a lovely bead of minerality on the dusty, lingering and complex finale. This will need a few years of bottle age to round out but I really like the delivery. (88-91)/2019+” Burghound.com January 2015
2013 Chambolle Musigny
From average 40 yo vines in the lieu dits of Les Chardannes and Les Herbues which are located lower down the slope from Bonnes Mares. Vinified with about 50-60% whole bunch and around 30% new oak. Very finely perfumed and with excellent depth for village. Very Chambolle in character with perfume and finesse and the fine silky tannins so typical of Chambolle.
2013 Nuits St Georges 1er cru “aux Thorey”
From 60yo vines located quite high on the slope close to the border with Vosne Romanee. Vinified with 70% whole bunch and 60% of barrels from 1-3 years old and just 40% new oak. Shows lovely lifted aromatics and finesse of tannins and structure more akin to Vosne Romanee and shows the vineyard characteristics so reminiscent of the Cathiard version from this vineyard.
2013 Nuits St Georges 1er cru “les Proces” – from 30yo vines located just above the southern entrance to Nuits. 70% whole bunch, 40% new oak.
“The palate is chewy on the entry with a lot of extraction, hence the finish is a little “tough” at the moment and missing some finesse and delineation. There is considerable substance and matière for sure however, it needs to translate the terroir with more clarity.” Neal Martin December 2014
2013 Chambolle Musigny 1er cru “Les Sentiers” – from 45yo vines located just below Grand cru Bonnes Mares. Vinified with about 70% whole bunch, 40% new oak.
“An airy, elegant and pure nose displays a mix of mostly red berry fruit scents where there is also plenty of floral character along with hints of earth, spice and smoke. Here too there is excellent volume to the sleekly muscular and more mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess a dusty mouth feel on the palate coating, balanced and beautifully persistent finish. This is powerful if not quite as powerful and I like the balance. (90-92)/2023+” Burghound.com January 2015
2013 Echezeaux Grand cru – 80% whole bunch – from 70+ yo vines in Les Rouges du Bas purchased from the Louis Remy family.
“This is also mildly reduced but not so much that the spice and floral characters are invisible. There is a much different texture here with its lush and generous rather than muscular palate feel to the seductively textured flavors that culminate in a structured, dusty and extract-rich finish. While this will reward extended keeping the richness is such that it should drink reasonably well young too. (90-93)/2025+” Burghound.com January 2015
2013 Clos de la Roche Grand cru – just 2 barrels produced from 65yo old vines located in the heart of the old original part of “Le Clos de la Roche” purchased from the Louis Remy holdings. Vinified with about 80% whole bunch and 40% new oak.
“An intensely floral nose features notes of violets, lilac and rose petal along with hints of Asian tea, game and earth on the mix of both red and blue pinot fruit aromas. There is superb intensity to the powerful and overtly muscular medium weight plus flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the structured and explosively persistent finish. This is a big but not rustic Clos de la Roche that should amply reward long-term cellaring and in any event will need it. (91-94)/2028+” Burghound.com January 2015
2013 Chambertin Grand cru – just 2 barrels produced from 50+60 yo vines vinified with 90% whole bunch.
“(from a .22 ha parcel). An airy, elegant and pure nose displays a mix of mostly red berry fruit scents where there is also plenty of floral character along with hints of earth, spice and smoke. Here too there is excellent volume to the sleekly muscular and more mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess a dusty mouth feel on the palate coating, balanced and beautifully persistent finish. This is powerful if not quite as powerful and I like the balance. (92-94)/2028+” Burghound.com January 2015
“..if 2012 is some rough combination of 2009 and 2010, then 2013 is like a riper and better balanced 2008 or perhaps a less powerful and more approachable 2010.” Burghound.com January 2015
2012 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits rouge
“There is good detail and a lovely sense of energy to the lightly mineral-inflected flavors that possess a touch of finishing edginess that it probably attributable to the abundant gas. (85-87)/2017+” Burghound.com April 2014
2012 Gevrey Chambertin
From several parcels of vines located mostly north of Gevrey Chambertin with 10% coming from closer to Morey St Denis below the village, aged in 40% new oak, 60% 1 y.o. oak. “There is a lovely touch of minerality to the succulent medium weight flavors that possess the same slightly edgy finish that is once again probably due to the abundant gas. (86-89)/2018+” Burghound.com April 2014
2012 Latricieres Chambertin Grand cru – 80% whole bunch
Very old vines from those purchased from the Louis Remy holdings. “A distinctly cool and ultra-restrained nose of airy floral, wet stone, humus and various red berry scents introduces broad-shouldered and intense but not massive flavors that possess terrific delineation and underlying tension. I really like the focused yet generous mid-palate that firms up substantially on the understated and mineral-driven finish that displays a bit of austerity but less than say the Clos del la Roche. In sum this is a classic Latricières that combines good power with finesse. (91-94)/2024+” Burghound.com April 2014
2012 Charmes Chambertin Grand cru
From 90 yo vines located in Mazoyeres-Chambertin from those purchased from the Louis Remy holdings. Vinified with 70% whole bunch and 40% new oak. Very perfumed and expansive aromas. At this early stage the wine is quite closed on the palate showing very fine tannins and all the finesse and delicacy that is typical of this Grand cru that borders Chambertin.