Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis, Burgundy, France.
Established: 2002
Appellations: AOC Chablis, AOC Petit Chablis, AOC Chablis Premier Cru, AOC Chablis Grand Cru.
Proprietor: Fabien Moreau
Winemaker: Fabien Moreau
Wine Making Overview: Hand harvesting, whole-bunch pressed, natural yeast ferment in stainless steel, elevage in stainless steel for all wines with 1er Cru and Grand Cru seeing about 1/3 aged in barrel of which 10% are new each year.
Vegan Friendly: Yes
Average Production: 7000 cases/year average
(some recent vintages have seen frost destroy 60-80% of the crop)
Viticulture: Certified Organic (biodynamic conversion has begun for some plots in Grand cru)
Vineyard Area: 12 ha
Vineyards:
Petit Chablis - 0.9 ha planted 2000 and 2014
Chablis AC - 1.2 ha in Les Pargues 60-70+ y.o. vines
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon - 4.7 ha 40-70+ y.o. vines
Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot - 0.2 ha planted 2002
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir - 0.5 ha planted 1998
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - 1 ha 40-70+ y.o. vines
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - 3 ha 40-70+ y.o. vines
Chablis Grand Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos
0.41 ha planted 1980
Vine Density: 6500 to 7000 vines/ha
One of the oldest and most respected names in Chablis with superb vineyard holdings reflecting the families very long history in Chablis, this branch of the Moreau family is headed by Christian and now his son Fabien who is the winemaker and manager.
Possessing magnificent vineyard holdings built up in some of the very best vineyard areas of Chablis by the family over generations (including nearly 8 hectares out of Chablis’ total 92 hectares of Grand cru), this small but remarkable estate has in just a few years established itself as one of the leading producers of Chablis producing consistently outstanding wines.
With relatively small (but very well sited) holdings in Petit, village and 1er cru Chablis, the highlights here are undoubtedly the amazing range of Grand cru vineyards including one single holding of approximately 3 hectares in Les Clos as well as .41 hectares of Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos plus slightly smaller holdings in Valmur, Blanchots and Vaudesir.
A combination of exceptional vineyard sites, old vines, brilliant wine-making and fastidious care in every step of production has resulted in these wines being regarded as amongst the very best produced in Chablis. Now the wines are gaining in even clearer expression with the vineyards having been certified organic since 2013 and together with some new tanks and other investments the results are showing clearly in the wines with each vintage. These are wines of precision, crystal clear typicity, and elegance, that will age classically while enabling tremendous enjoyment throughout their lives.
2023 vintage
This 12.5 ha domaine is directed by Christian Moreau and his son Fabien, and it was the younger Moreau with whom I met this year. He described the 2023 vintage as “yet another one where I feared we would suffer significant frost damage as the early April conditions were ripe for it, in the end there was no damage of consequence. By contrast, there was enough rainfall throughout the season such that, despite the heat, the vines largely avoided water stress though those same conditions did trigger a strong attack of mildew that did some damage. Then, about two weeks before the harvest we were hit with a heat wave that caused acid levels to begin declining so choosing the optimal date to start the harvest was delicate. In the end, we chose to begin picking on the 8th of September.
The fruit was clean with generous but not excessive yields of mostly between 65 to 68 hl/ha, which is about what we realized in 2011. Potential alcohols were also good but not high as they ranged from 12.5 to 13.2%. Acidities though were on the lower side so we chose we blocked the malos in a few wines and in all cases, we eliminated the press wine as it always has much higher amounts of potassium. [Potassium is a base, chemically speaking, and higher levels cause the pHs to rise.] We also had a few wines that finished their alcoholics while leaving 1 to 1.5 grams of sugar so a few of the fermentations were complicated to manage. As to the wines, it’s hard to pin them down right now as they keep changing, and improving.
To me, they have more character than the 2016s and are less exotic than the 2018s. But each vintage is unique so I expect that the 2023s will develop their own personality as well.” I also retasted the range of 2022s, which were bottled between August 2023 and February 2024. For several years, the domaine was bottling the Chablis villages, Vaillons and Cuvée Guy Moreau under the Diam brand composite cork. However, since 2020, all of the wines are stoppered using Diam. Burghound October 2024
WINE NOTES AND REVIEWS
2023 Petit Chablis - due October
From vines located at the top of the hill of Grand Crus only metres from the Grand cru Valmur and also this wine includes another very small 0.4 ha planting also at the crest of the hill of Grand Crus (just above Vaudesir) that the Moreau family have planted more recently. This wine shows amazing depth and detail and provides remarkable value. An absolute bargain but unfortunately very limited quantities available as this is their smallest holding (after the tiny 0.41ha of Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos). Thankfully Australia and Norway receive the lions share of this tiny production which is perhaps too small to share with the rest of the world. Don’t delay as this always sells out very quickly!
Review for 2019 vintage ”I understand that you are unlikely to find this wine unless you live in Australia or Norway. Consumers in those countries should pile in quickly! It comes from just 0.50ha above Valmur and 0.27 above Vaudésir. This is really gorgeous, very grapey along with a lime-laden nose. Just a spicy hint of fully ripe grapes. Attractively clear cut, fine acidity behind, riotously juicy. This weighs in at 12.6% alcohol. Tasted: July 2020” Jasper Morris, Insideburgundy.com, December 2020
2023 Chablis AC - due October
Aged mostly in stainless steel with 15% of the blend this year seeing barrel ageing. 40+ years old vines. Comes mostly from a blend of 2 cuvees from the village of Beru in the east which Fabien describes as naturally reductive, and more recently a parcel from behind the hill of Grand cru’s towards Fontenay. The blend of these 2 terroirs brings extra complexity and a perfect balance of generosity, coolness and minerality from Fontenay together with reserve and finesse from Beru.
(100% stainless). There is ample Chablis typicity to the nicely fresh aromas of citrus, pear and sea breeze. The sense of freshness is enhanced by the vibrant and detailed middle weight flavors that culminate in a lightly stony and appealingly textured finish. This should drink well young but repay mid-term keeping. (88-90)/2027+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon - due October
From 3.8 ha of 30 to 70+ y.o. vines with a south, south-east exposure. Hand harvest, natural yeast ferment and aged 2/3rd’s in tank and 1/3rd in barrique for 6-8 months. This wine in recent years is showing even greater definition and class. Is it from the organic viticulture, new tanks and equipment giving sharper focus, or now that Fabien has nearly 20 vintages of experience in creating what has become one of the most seamless and perfectly formed 1er cru Chablis’ to come from this appellation. You be the judge, but be quick as this is always the first to sell out.
(40+ year old vines mostly situated in Vaillons proper with additional parcels in Châtains and Epinottes). A vague whiff of the exotic lurks in the background of the aromas of pear, citrus rind and discreet spice nuances. There is both more volume and refinement to the nicely concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess better depth on the equally lightly finish that offers a bit more persistence. (90-92)/2029+ (90-92)/2029+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon ‘Guy Moreau’ - very limited
From vines planted in 1933. 70% vinified in tank and 30% in oak, less than 2% new).
(from vines planted in 1933 in Vaillons proper). Here too a whiff of the exotic can be found on the slightly riper aromas of pear, apple and citrus confit plus just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. As is usually the case, the old vines are in evidence on the middle weight plus flavors thanks to the abundance of sappy dry extract that coats the palate on the seductively textured finish. This does however need better depth so at least some patience is recommended. (90-92)/2029+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots - very limited
From a tiny 0.10ha east facing holding near the top of the hill with a cooler east-facing exposure.
(from a tiny .10 ha parcel near the top of the slope). More obvious though not invasive wood is present on the ripe and more floral-suffused aromas of passion fruit, white orchard fruit and a hint of quinine. Here too there is fine density and volume to the very rich, even plush, medium-bodied flavors that also conclude in a balanced and long if not quite as complex finale. Even so, more depth should reasonably develop if given a chance. (90-93)/2030+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir - very limited
From a tiny 0.50ha plot of vines planted in 1998 with a south-east exposure located near the top of the hill of Grand cru’s.
(from a .50 ha parcel of vines on the ‘sunny’ side that were replanted in 1998; vinified in stainless but with the élevage in older wood). A deft application of wood sets off ripe but not really exotic aromas of white peach, acacia, citrus zest and a touch of algae. There is both fine intensity and a lovely texture to the mineral-driven medium weight flavors that deliver very good length on the balanced, refined and notably more complex finale. Lovely. (91-93)/2030+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - very limited
From vines average age over 40 years old. Half of the holding of the estate has been re-planted in recent years so quantities of this wine are reduced recently.
A pungent nose of smoky reduction and wood toast is all that can be discerned at present. Otherwise, the rich, powerful and concentrated broad-shouldered flavors also possess plenty of sappy dry extract before concluding in a lemony, dry and moderately austere finale. This is a big and firmly structured wine that also needs to develop better depth. (90-93)/2031+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - very limited
From a single 2.9ha plot of vines that goes from the very bottom of the slope to close to the top of the vineyard. This remarkable holding is arguably the most representative Les Clos from the whole vineyard. Vines here are aged mostly from 45-75 years of age. The wine is aged about 1/3rd in barrel (about 10% new) and 2/3rds in stainless steel tanks.
(from a huge, and single, 2.9 ha parcel). Ripe, elegant and relatively cool aromas include those of acacia, oyster shell, iodine and a moderate dollop of wood that can also be found on the intense big-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the impressively long finale where the only nit is a touch of warmth. I would add that the wood influence is sufficient such that there is a borderline tannic quality to the finish. Patience strongly advised. (91-94)/2033+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2023 Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos - very limited
A tiny 0.41 ha strip of vines located at the bottom of Grand Cru Les Clos.
(from a .41 ha parcel located at the bottom of the hill in Les Clos). A slightly leesy character detracts mildly from the aromas of spicy citrus, iodine and shellfish that are also trimmed in moderate wood influence. There is more size, weight and volume to the large-scaled flavors that brim with sappy dry extract as well as evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the impressively long finish where a similar touch of warmth emerges. This could use better depth but the underlying material should allow more to develop in time. (91-94)/2031+ Burghound.com , October 2024
2022 vintage - SOLD OUT
2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon ‘Guy Moreau’ - very limited
From vines planted in 1933. 70% vinified in tank and 30% in oak, less than 2% new).
(from vines planted in 1933 in Vaillons proper). A slightly cooler nose reflects notes of white pepper and a touch of the exotic while the wood treatment, while subtle, is a bit more noticeable. The old vines are in evidence as the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is markedly denser as the sappy extract coats the palate while buffering the moderately firm acid spine shaping the very dry, more complex and slightly long finale. Lovely. (90-93)/2029+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2022 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots - very limited
From a tiny 0.10ha east facing holding near the top of the hill with a cooler east-facing exposure.
(from a tiny .10 ha parcel near the top of the slope). Discreet but not imperceptible wood sets off ripe liqueur-like aromas of spiced pear, acacia blossom and moderate Chablis typicity. There is excellent richness and midpalate density to the relatively powerful mineral-driven flavors that deliver fine length on the sappy bitter lemon-inflected finale. This delicious effort could use better depth so a few years of keeping should be beneficial. (91-94)/2030+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2022 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir - very limited
From a tiny 0.50ha plot of vines planted in 1998 with a south-east exposure located near the top of the hill of Grand cru’s.
(from a .50 ha parcel of vines on the ‘sunny’ side that were replanted in 1998; vinified in stainless but with the élevage in older wood). This is also aromatically cool with its pretty mix of pear confit, mineral reduction, floral and more obvious Chablis typicity. There is a really lovely sense of vibrancy to the energetic middleweight flavors that possess a gorgeous texture while exuding a fine bead of minerality on the long, dry and beautifully well-balanced finale. This is pretty much textbook Vaudésir that is very much a wine of finesse. (92-94)/2030+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2022 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur - very limited
From vines average age over 40 years old. Half of the holding of the estate has been re-planted in recent years so quantities of this wine are reduced recently.
(from a full 1 ha parcel). More evident wood frames ripe aromas of white fleshed fruit, lemon-lime, mineral reduction and a suggestion of quinine. The exceptionally rich yet intense and powerful big-bodied flash a taut muscularity on the impressively long, very dry and impeccably well-balanced finale. (92-94)/2032+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - very limited
From a single 2.9ha plot of vines that goes from the very bottom of the slope to close to the top of the vineyard. This remarkable holding is arguably the most representative Les Clos from the whole vineyard. Vines here are aged mostly from 45-75 years of age. The wine is aged about 1/3rd in barrel (about 10% new) and 2/3rds in stainless steel tanks.
(from a huge, and single, 2.9 ha parcel). Moderate wood is present on the overtly floral-suffused nose of mostly white fleshed fruit, especially pear and apple, along with notes of citrus confit, acacia and oyster shell whiffs. There is excellent richness and concentration to the markedly powerful larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate on the overtly stony, dry and compact finale. At least moderate patience will be required as this is pretty tightly wound. (92-95)/2032+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2022 Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos - very limited
A tiny 0.41 ha strip of vines located at the bottom of Grand Cru Les Clos.
(from a .41 ha parcel located at the bottom of the hill in Les Clos). More apparent wood is present on the otherwise similar nose. There is however more richness and volume to the slightly bigger-bodied and more concentrated flavors that also brim with sappy dry extract while exhibiting outstanding length on the powerful and equally compact finale. This isn’t quite as detailed, or as mineral-driven on the palpably citrus-inflected finish and overall, these two wines are qualitatively quite similar even if they offer two different expressions. (92-95)/2032+ Burghound.com , October 2023
2021 vintage - SOLD OUT
”Huge damage in every place in Chablis (and in every vineyard in France…). We had rain and -6°c after, the day after some snow….the worst script you could imagine. The result for us: we saved so far, our Les Clos, the Clos des Hospices and 1.5ha of Vaillon with our frost protection. The rest is burn at 70-90%..... :=((( What we saved, represent 1/3 of our vineyard, but it’s very hard to go in other vineyards to see the disaster…. Which is unique is that every Village in the appellation is damaged. Normally you have always some place which survive, but not this time. But in 2021, the Petit Chablis is probably the most affected by the frost. The plot over Valmur is almost completely burn, the one over Vaudésir probably 50% damaged….” Fabien Moreau
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon
From 3.8 ha of 30 to 70+ y.o. vines with a south, south-east exposure. Hand harvest, natural yeast ferment and aged 2/3rd’s in tank and 1/3rd in barrique for 6-8 months. This wine in recent years is showing even greater definition and class. Is it from the organic viticulture, new tanks and equipment giving sharper focus, or now that Fabien has nearly 20 vintages of experience in creating what has become one of the most seamless and perfectly formed 1er cru Chablis’ to come from this appellation. You be the judge, but be quick as this is always the first to sell out.
”(40+ year old vines mostly situated in Vaillons proper with additional parcels in Châtains and Epinottes). This too displays a moderate level of reduction as well as a touch of wood toast. The succulent, round and beautifully textured medium-bodied flavors possess a subtle minerality on the markedly dry but not really austere finale. This is still quite primary, and a few years of aging should help to develop better depth. (90-92)/2027+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon ‘Guy Moreau’
From vines planted in 1933. 70% vinified in tank and 30% in oak, less than 2% new).
”(from vines planted in 1933 in Vaillons proper). Here there is no reductive funk to the pretty and very floral aromas of spice, pear, apple and quinine that are trimmed in more prominent wood. The old vines are very much in evidence on the concentrated, palate coating and rich bigger-bodied flavors that possess focused power on the saline and intensely bitter zest-suffused finish. This should be excellent in time. (90-93)/2028+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
From a tiny 0.10ha east facing holding near the top of the hill with a cooler east-facing exposure.
”(from a tiny .10 ha parcel near the top of the slope). Here the wood treatment is more subtle though not invisible, and it easily allows the aromas of lemon-lime, sea breeze and white fleshed fruit scents to shine. The racy, intense and tension-filled middleweight flavors possess a bracing salinity on the dry, chiseled and firm finale. This is lovely and a wine that should also repay mid-term patience. (91-94)/2029+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir
From a tiny 0.50ha plot of vines planted in 1998 with a south-east exposure located near the top of the hill of Grand cru’s.
”Firm reduction renders the nose unreadable today. I very much like both the texture and the intensity of the refined yet powerful medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the detailed and strikingly long finish. This is a wine of finesse and punch and one that should amply repay extended keeping. (92-95)/2031+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
From vines average age over 40 years old. Half of the holding of the estate has been re-planted in recent years so quantities of this wine are reduced recently.
”The one hectare parcel that constitutes the 2021 Chablis Valmur Grand cru yielded five barrels this year. This also has a very heavy reduction and is quite yeasty at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a marine influenced entry, flecks of white chocolate complementing the citrus fruit with a longer finish than the Blanchot. Fine sour lemon mixed with orange rind on the aftertaste. Excellent. (92-94)/2026-2050” Neal Martin, Vinous Media, June 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From a single 2.9ha plot of vines that goes from the very bottom of the slope to close to the top of the vineyard. This remarkable holding is arguably the most representative Les Clos from the whole vineyard. Vines here are aged mostly from 45-75 years of age. The wine is aged about 1/3rd in barrel (about 10% new) and 2/3rds in stainless steel tanks.
”(from a huge 2.9 ha parcel). Here too the nose is presently dominated by reduction and wood toast. More interesting are the sleek, intense and ultra-fresh middleweight plus flavors that possess excellent size, richness and power where the latter suffuses the sappy, muscular and saliva-inducing, moderately dry and compact finale. This very promising effort is going to need at least a decade to realize its full potential. Impressive. (92-95)/2031+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos
A tiny 0.41 ha strip of vines located at the bottom of Grand Cru Les Clos.
”(from a .41 ha parcel located at the bottom of the hill in Les Clos). This is also reduced and toasty on the nose. Otherwise, the rich, powerful and imposingly concentrated larger-scaled flavors brim with both sappy dry extract and minerality on the massively persistent, balanced and agreeably dry finale. I generally don’t find a great deal of qualitative difference between the Hospices and the regular cuvée but in 2021 the Hospices has just bit more overall depth, at least at this early juncture. (93-95)/2033+” Burghound.com , October 2022
2020 vintage - SOLD OUT
”Very fresh, mineral vintage with less alcoholic level and nice tension. A little bit away from the 2 last “warm” vintages 2018 and 2019. For the 2020, we produce some good yield, around 52 to 58 hl/ha, which is very good, between the production of 2018 and 2019, and regarding the style we have more minerality / tension compare to the previous vintages.” Fabien Moreau
2020 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon ‘Guy Moreau’
From vines planted in 1933. 70% vinified in tank and 30% in oak, less than 2% new).
”(from vines planted in 1933 in Vaillons proper). Once again there is a touch of fruitiness to the more floral-inflected aromas of citrus, iodine and quinine. I very much like the texture of the sleek and delineated medium-bodied flavors that are more powerful than those of the regular cuvée while offering notably better depth on the youthfully austere and persistent finale. (90-93)/2026+” Burghound.com , October 2021
2020 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
From a tiny 0.10ha east facing holding near the top of the hill with a cooler east-facing exposure.
”The Blanchots chez Moreau is the family’s smallest holding in a grand cru, so this is a wine that is never easy to find in the market. The 2020 version will be well worth a special search, as it too is a lovely bottle in the making. The nose delivers a lovely, youthful combination of tart orange, apple, beeswax, a complex base of chalky soil tones, gentle notes of new oak and a topnote of white lilies. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and beautifully delineated, with fine depth at the core, excellent transparency and bounce, zesty acids and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. Fine, fine juice. 2028-2070. 94+.” John Gilman, viewfromthecellar.com, January 2022
”(from a tiny .10 ha parcel near the top of the slope). Here too there is just enough wood to mention framing ripe aromas of smoky mineral reduction, prominent floral nuances and iodine whiffs. The mouthfeel of the lilting medium weight flavors is also notably refined with equally good punch suffusing the sneaky long and well-balanced finale. This should reward moderate patience. (91-93)/2027+” Burghound.com , October 2021
2020 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir
From a tiny 0.50ha plot of vines planted in 1998 with a south-east exposure located near the top of the hill of Grand cru’s.
”The 2020 Chablis “Vaudésir” from Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils is another fine, fine bottle in the making. The bouquet is pure and precise, wafting from the glass in a blend of pear, fresh lime, a lovely base of flinty, chalky soil tones, a discreet touch of vanillin oak, dried flowers, paraffin and a bit of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and very long on the backend, with a superb core of fruit, lovely minerality and cut and a long, beautifully balanced and classy finish. First class Vaudésir! 2028-2070. 94+.” John Gilman, viewfromthecellar.com, January 2022
”(from a .50 ha parcel of vines that were replanted in 1998). A deft application of wood sets off everso-mildly exotic aromas of elegant and pure white and yellow orchard fruit, acacia blossom and whiffs of ocean breeze and shrimp shells. There is excellent intensity to the refined, restrained and lilting but punchy middle weight flavors that conclude in a balanced, lingering and harmonious finale. This is very Zen in its delivery. (91-94)/2027+” Burghound.com , October 2021
2020 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
From vines average age over 40 years old.
”The 2020 Valmur chez Moreau was already assembled in tank, but the wine was in fine form and absolutely singing at the time of my visit. The refined aromatic constellation delivers scents of apple, pear, a very complex base of Kimmeridgian limestone soil, spring flowers, beeswax and a deft framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with impressive mineral drive and grip, snappy acids and a long, complex finish that closes today with just a touch of its new oak still showing. This will be further absorbed with a bit of bottle age and the wine will be perfectly balanced by the time it reaches cruising altitude. 2028-2070. 94+.” John Gilman, viewfromthecellar.com, January 2022
”(from a full 1 ha parcel). Once again there is admirably discreet wood influence hovering in the background of the essence of pear, green fruit, seashore and saltwater brine aromas. There is outstanding intensity to the muscular, powerful and more concentrated big-bodied flavors that conclude in a super-sleek, clean and bone-dry finale that delivers sneaky good length as the finish terminates and then reemerges. Lovely and very Valmur in style. (91-94)/2028+” Burghound.com , October 2021
2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From a single 2.9ha plot of vines that goes from the very bottom of the slope to close to the top of the vineyard. This remarkable holding is arguably the most representative Les Clos from the whole vineyard. Vines here are aged mostly from 45-75 years of age. The wine is aged about 1/3rd in barrel (about 10% new) and 2/3rds in stainless steel tanks.
”The 2020 les Clos from the Moreau family is an excellent wine in the making. The nose is deep, pure and nascently complex, delivering scents of pear, apple, flinty, chalky soil tones, beeswax, a nice touch of vanillin oak and a topnote of lime blossoms. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, poised and rock solid at the core, with superb mineral drive and focus, bright, snappy acids, laser-like focus and a very, very long, very precise finish. All this beautiful example of les Clos will need is time in the cellar to start hitting on all cylinders. 2030-2070. 95.” John Gilman, viewfromthecellar.com, January 2022
”(from a huge 2.9 ha parcel). Slightly more apparent wood (though still nicely subtle) is present on the overtly floral-suffused nose where notes of lemongrass, mineral reduction and iodine add breadth. There is impressive volume to the powerful and delineated yet reasonably refined larger-scaled flavors that where the texture is akin to sucking on tiny rocks. The balanced bone-dry finish is refreshingly crisp in no small part thanks to the citrus-tinged acidity. (92-94)/2030+” Burghound.com , October 2021
2020 Chablis Grand Cru Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos
A tiny 0.41 ha strip of vines located at the bottom of Grand Cru Les Clos.
”I used to think that the Clos des Hospices bottling was a bit more new oaky in personality than the regular les Clos here at Domaine Moreau, but I was ill-informed back in those days. This is simply a one hectare parcel of the grand cru that the family purchased from the Hospices in Chablis back in 1904 and have always bottled separately. It is raised in fifty percent casks each year, with about five percent of these new in any given vintage, and the rest raised in tank. The 2020 Clos des Hospices is a stellar wine in the making, offering up a pure and very deep bouquet of apple, pear, a touch of tart orange, a gorgeous base of limestone minerality, just a whisper of oyster shell, beeswax, vanillin oak and a nice floral touch in the upper register of white lilies. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, long and shows off lovely depth in the mid-palate, with lovely soil signature and grip, zesty acids and a very long, focused and perfectly balanced finish. Fine, fine wine. 2030-2080. 96.” John Gilman, viewfromthecellar.com, January 2022
”(from a .41 ha parcel located at the bottom of the hill in Les Clos). Once again the nose reflects just enough wood to be worth pointing out though it easily allows the slightly riper if otherwise similar aromas to shine. There is also excellent intensity to the dense, powerful and punchy broad-shouldered and sappy flavors that display outstanding length on the balanced and slightly more persistent finale. The regular cuvée is a bit racier and this is a bit weightier and more powerful, so these two wines offer, in essence, a qualitative choice. (92-94)/2030+” Burghound.com , October 2021