Château La Grange Cochard Beaujolais, France.
Whilst this is a very old property and chateau the new owners (since 2008) have in a very short time established themselves among the very top producers of this highly prized appellation. With a relatively small vineyard area of just 6.5 hectares of very old and established vines to tend to, the care and attention to detail here has been very impressive yielding widespread critical acclaim.
All of their vineyards are located very close to their winery and chateau and their vineyards are all farmed organically (not certified). For vinification after hand picking into small cases and careful sorting the vinifications are made in a classic way with ferments taking place in cement tanks and then ageing in a mixture of foudres and barrels keeping the wine on lees until bottling around 9-12 months after harvest. These are wines of purity and generosity evident from very old vines. The wines demand some time to show their best (as most top Morgon wines do).
2015 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
From 40-70 year old vines grown on ancient stony-clay decomposed granite alluvial soils just across the road from the Château. Vinification of whole bunches, followed by a 2-3 week fermentation and maturation in old 3000 litre foudres. Elegant and fresh and pure, never heavy.
‘The 2015 Morgon “Vieilles Vignes” from Château Grange Cochard is a ripe example of the vintage, coming in listed at fourteen percent octane, but probably slightly exceeding this level. The nose is deep, sappy and exuberant, offering up scents of black cherries, sweet dark berries, a touch of balsam bough, chocolate, a touch of mustard seed, lovely soil tones and a bit of apricot in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with ripe, firm tannins, good focus and grip and a very long, primary and cool finish. Like many of the top 2015s, this is structured and will need some time in the cellar to come around, but it manages its ripeness beautifully and will be an excellent wine when it is ready to drink. Drink 2021-2045.’ 91+ points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar, October 2017.
2015 Morgon Les Charmes
From vines up to 100 years old, grown on soft pink granite in Les Charmes, the highest climat in Morgon, reaching over 400m. Fully de-stemmed, followed by a 2-3 week fermentation and maturation in 3-4 year old French oak barriques.
‘An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, Indian spices and minerals, along with an exotic touch of incense that emerges with air. In a nervy, elegant style for a rich vintage, offering appealingly sweet black raspberry, cherry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that show very good depth as well as finesse. A spine of juicy acidity adds lift and focus to an impressively long, floral-dominated finish framed by supple, harmonious tannins. Drink 2021-2027.’ 93 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, March 2018.
2015 Morgon Côte du Py
From old vines grown at the very top of the most renowned terroir of Morgon, the Côte du Py, on the crushed blue schist of the ancient volcano. Predominantly de-stemmed, followed by a 2-3 week fermentation and maturation in a mix of barrique and larger format oak.
‘The 2015 Côte du Py from Château Grange Cochard is also a big, bold and ripe example of the vintage, offering up a sappy bouquet of black cherries, chocolate, cassis, dark soil tones, a touch of squab and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and sappy at the core, with a very fine structural chassis, moderate tannins, fine focus and a long, nascently complex and very nicely balanced finish. There is more backend soil signature here than in the Vieilles Vignes and this should make fine old bones. A very impressive 2015! Drink 2017-2050.’ 93 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar, October 2017.
2014 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
‘Bright violet. Pungent dark berries, violet and a hint of candied licorice on the highly perfumed nose. Sweet and penetrating, offering intense blackberry and cherry flavors that unfold and pick up a spicy element with air. Powerful yet lithe, showing strong closing thrust and smooth, even tannins that build slowly and add shape. I suspect that this wine will enjoy a long, steady curve at maturity.’ 92 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, August 2017.
2014 Morgon Les Charmes
‘Brilliant ruby. Very fresh and vibrant on the nose, displaying heady red berry and potpourri aromas and a zesty mineral overtone. In an elegant style, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, cherry and spicecake flavors given spine by juicy acidity. Shows outstanding depth as well as vivacity, and finishes with wonderful floral- and mineral-driven persistence and silky tannins that sneak in late.’ 92 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, August 2017.
2014 Morgon Côte du Py
‘Deep ruby. Mineral-accented cherry and blackberry aromas are underscored by a spicy element that gains strength as the wine opens up. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet dark berry flavors with complicating suggestions of star anise and violet. The spice and floral qualities build steadily through an impressively long, sappy finish, which is framed by harmonious tannins that fold easily into the intense fruit.’ 92 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous, August 2017.
2013 Morgon Vieilles Vignes
‘The 2013 Morgon “Vieilles Vignes” from Château Grange Cochard is an excellent example of the vintage, but it is a wine that really deserves a bit of bottle age to fully blossom before starting to drink it with wild abandon. The pure and very classy nose offers up a nascently complex mélange of black cherries, cassis, espresso, dark soil tones, a bit of bonfire, fresh thyme and a very discreet touch of spicy wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and potentially quite sappy at the core, with a bit of ripe tannin, good acids and lovely soil signature on the long, complex and nicely structured finish. Like the 2013 Côte du Py, this will want a couple of years’ worth of bottle age to blossom, but it too will be excellent when it is ready to drink. Drink 2017-2040+.’ 93 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar, July 2015.
2013 Morgon Les Charmes
‘The 2013 Morgon “les Charmes” from Château Grange Cochard is a beautiful bottle of Morgon that is already quite accessible, but with the underlying chassis of structure to also age long and gracefully. The pure and sappy nose offers up scents of black cherries, granite, woodsmoke, a bit of espresso, fresh thyme and a hint of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with excellent soil inflection, a bit of firm tannin, tangy acids and outstanding length and grip on the complex and very classic finish. Fine, fine Morgon. Drink 2015-2040+.’ 93 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar, July 2015.
2013 Morgon Côte du Py
‘Sarah and James Wilding have done marvelous things at Château Grange Cochard since they purchased the estate in 2008, and their 2013s are clearly the finest wines I have yet tasted from this fine husband and wife team. The 2013 Côte du Py, which hails from old vines at the very pinnacle of the vineyard, is flat out stunning, soaring from the glass in a blaze of black cherries, pomegranate, superb minerality, a touch of youthful pepper, bitter chocolate and a smoky top-note. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and nicely structured, with a rock solid core, great transparency, tangy acids, moderate tannins and great length and grip on the youthful and very, very promising finish. A classic bottle of Côte du Py in the making, all this wine needs is a bit of bottle age to really start hitting on all cylinders. Drink 2017-2040+.’ 93 points, John Gilman, View From The Cellar, July 2015.
2012 Morgon vieilles vignes
‘Château Grange Cochard has only been in the hands of the Wilding family since 2008, but it has quickly become one of the stars in Villié-Morgon, and the 2012s are far superior to several more famous names in the village in this difficult year. The Vieilles Vignes bottling at Grange Cochard hails from a couple of parcels of fifty-plus year-old vines that lies outside of the Côte du Py, and the 2012 is an impressively ripe and sappy example of the vintage. The bouquet is a vibrant and classy blend of black cherries, pomegranate, fresh thyme, nutskins, beautiful soil tones and a bit of cardamom in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and complex, with superb mid-palate concentration, just a touch of velvety tannin and a very long, seamless and complex finish. This is a revelation for the vintage without a bit of greenness! Drink 2014-2025.’ John Gilman, View From The Cellar, September 2014.
2012 Morgon Cote du Py
‘The 2012 Morgon “Côte du Py from Château Grange Cochard is also outstanding, wafting from the glass in a deep and sappy aromatic constellation of red plums, black cherries, woodsmoke, gamebird, dark soil tones, thyme and a delicate topnote of Indian spices. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and shows off a lovely core of fruit, with fine soil signature, a touch of tannin and very good length and grip on the focussed finish. Another transcendental example of the 2012 vintage, but this year, I have to give a very, very slight nod to the estate’s Vieilles Vignes bottling. Drink 2014-2025.’ John Gilman, View From The Cellar, September 2014.