Caroline Morey

Caroline Morey comes from  a long line of vignerons based in the Cotes de Beaune and is also married to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. In 2014 Caroline has taken her share of some family vineyards from her father Jean-Marc and has created her own domaine based in Chassagne-Montrachet working out of brand new cellars built for Caroline and her husband Pierre-Yves.

For Caroline’s first vintage in 2014 she had small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet for both red and white together with small holdings in Santenay and Hautes Cotes de Beaune totaling just 2.4 hectares. With more vineyards added both from family and from acquisitions in the last few years the total is now 7 hectares for Caroline. Her family holdings were roughly half for red wines and half for white wines, so Caroline has always been very comfortable vinifying red wines and is clearly adept with whites as well. For her own estate her holdings are about 35% Pinot Noir and 65% Chardonnay.

Caroline’s approach in the cellar shows a similar light touch as her husband using mostly 350 litre barrels with no more than 30% new and with no battonage for the white wines. For the red wines she adapts to each site and each vintage with no ‘recipe’ as such save to say that Caroline favours a little whole bunch when possible but never more than 50% which she considers too much. Now settled into the new cellars and with 5 vintages released it is clear that Caroline has moved straight into the premier tier of producers in the Cote de Beaune as she has rapidly established her very small and very fine estate. With just a few barrels produced of most wines these will be difficult to come by.

All wines very limited and available mostly on allocation.

The 2021 vintage:
“This is my inaugural exploration of the wines of Caroline Morey, aka Pierre-Yves Colin’s “better half”. The wines were inherited from her family and hewn from a different cloth, even though they have been made in the same winery in Chassagne since 2017. The one major difference compared to PYCM is that she uses slightly less new oak, around 20-25% instead of 30-35%, not to mention half-a-dozen reds. Readers should note that the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Village includes fruit from decimated Premier Crus from Les Caillerets and Chaumées. Pierre Yves explains the approach to the reds: “The reds undergo little extraction, and Caroline did not pursue more colour or tannins; all the cuvées include 30% to 50% whole bunches with a maximum two-week cuvaison during which there are only two or three pigeage and a little remontage. There is also a shorter barrel maturation; they’re racked in October, blended in tank and bottled in January.” Neal Martin, Vinous Media, January 2023

The wines…

The reds have an open and airy style – lots of elegance in this vintage but not lacking an ounce of material. The whites, at this stage, show a similar elegance but the shapes and often the clarity too are really on a high level. Some covetable wines here.

White wines due May 2024 - extremely limited

2021 Santenay Les Cornieres blanc
Located just below Santenay Le Haut not far from 1er cru Maladieres. A quick drive through the vineyards of Santenay and it is very clear how much limestone terroir peaks through and so perhaps it is not surprising that some growers are returning to planting Chardonnay in these sites once again. This wine shows very fine ripe orchard fruits even showing a touch exotic.
Pale lemon colour with a green tint. Two barrels only of which one new. The oak does play a part in the bouquet. Otherwise, clean and lemon scented. Quite tightly knit with a faint reduction. Still quite some acidity, though this has calmed down since malolactic fermentation. Drink from 2024-2027. (87-89) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2022

2021 Beaune 1er cru Greves blanc
From vines planted 1999 in the middle part of this 1er cru. Fine delicate aromas also showing good intensity and depth on the palate. Very promising, give this time to unfurl.
Long rows of 4-500m shared with cousin Thomas Morey a mix of red and white, vines planted in 2001.
Just one barrel made, malolactic done. Clear pale colour. A reductive quality, though with finesse. I like the balance of this though I still wonder why it was planted to chardonnay. Very nicely persistent, with some nuance of fresh citrus. Drink from 2024-2028. (90-92) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2022

2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrées
From 3 parcels of vines 1960’s and early 1990’s old located in Le Chene, Les Masures and La Bergerie. Pure crystalline fruit showing great style and restraint with good generosity for AC level. Average is at least 40 years-old. New vines en-fermage in this vintage. Assembled all the lieu-dits this year, though all vinified separately.
Pale lemon and lime. A slightly smudged nose, showing a little barrel. White fruit with a fresh mineral finish, a little lime juice, and some length. Drink from 2024-2027. (87-90) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2022

2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A blend of Champgains and Vergers with a bare smidgin of Caillerets and Chaumées. The first two managed a good half crop after successful protection. Clear pale colour, the nose suggests fair weight without giving detail. Really very pretty on the nose, crisp limestone style, slightly saline, fresh and persistent. Drink from 2025-2030. (91-93) Jasper Morris, Oct. 2022

2021 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
From a few rows of vines located towards the bottom of this tiny Grand cru vineyard and the next two rows below Carolines holding are owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy. This holding came from purchasing an old estate based in Santenay which also had this tiny holding of Grand cru. Very pure with discrete power and length. A wine of great freshness and dimension. Wants time.
Protected and pruned late, so a reasonable result here, enough to make two barrels, of which one new. I am spending time on the nose, watching it come out. This is a very nuanced wine, not massive but with detail and a certain tensile strength that lets little wavelets of flavour keep pushing through. Oak at the back but marries well with the fruit. Drink from 2026-2032.
(93-95) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2022

Red wines

2022 red wines due second half of 2024

2022 Santenay rouge
From vines located in the lieu-dit of Le Chainey in the southern sector of Santenay quite high on the slope adjoining 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau. The wine is aged in 30% new barrels. This shows fine bright sour cherry aromatics with super fine tannins and striking finesse and wonderfully fresh crunchy fruit. So attractive now.

2022 Santenay 1er cru La Comme rouge
Made with about 35% whole bunch (layered at the bottom of the ferment). Shows a very pale and delicate colour. Fine strawberry aromas and so fine and silky on the palate this is just irresistable even now. Extraordinary finesse and style from this vineyard which adjoins Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Embazees.
A pale ruby purple. The bouquet is very elegant. Caroline always liked to make a lighter style of Burgundy, yet the intensity of fruit in 2022 adds a degree of intensity without changing the basis of her style. Very persistent given the finesse of this wine. Just racked too, so chapeau. Drink from 2026-2030. (90-92) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet rouge
From vines located just below the village in Les Chenes Les Pierres and Les Chambres. Made with 35% whole bunch and bottled in November after 12 months ageing in barrel to capture the freshness. Pale in colour this shows a very fresh and bright aspect with lifted aromatics hinting at cranberry. Super fine tannins and bright crunchy fruit with more depth and stuffing than the Santenay. Serious, yet so approachable already.
Old vines in cordon training in Les Chênes, Chambres and Les Pierres across the main road. No great depth of colour here but the bouquet is super-fine for a Chassagne, still with good grip behind. A little more insular personality than the Santenay, possibly less fine, but I like its character. Drink from 2026-2031. (89-91) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Champs Gains rouge
Elevage this year in 500 litre barrel. This shows fabulous aromatics with real finesse with no lack of depth and persistence. All class and so approachable already. Only two producers make this in red – Caroline and her father. The parcel is now shared.
Fresh mid purple. Rather a pure and stylish fruit, very floral, more like a Clos St-Jean than a Morgeot. Graceful raspberry and a bit of alpine strawberry, seems delicate yet the fruit fills the mouth beautifully. Attractive long finish. Delicious! Drink from 2027-2033. (91-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Beaune 1er cru Greves rouge
Older vines here, planted in the mid-60s, roughly. White planted in the middle, book-ended by this red.
Fine pale ruby. Here the whole bunch crushed strawberry is a bit more evident. There is a generosity of fruit behind, still a few tannins in the background, with an excellent aftertaste with a sensual deep red fruit. Not a classic of the Grèves vineyard, but clearly a fine wine from Beaune. Drink from 2026-2032. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

WHITE WINES - the following due SEPT 2025

2022 Santenay Les Cornieres blanc
Located just below Santenay Le Haut not far from 1er cru Maladieres. A quick drive through the vineyards of Santenay and it is very clear how much limestone terroir peaks through and so perhaps it is not surprising that some growers are returning to planting Chardonnay in these sites once again. This wine shows very fine ripe orchard fruits even showing a touch exotic.
Pale lemon and lime. The bouquet is quite elegant with a little generosity of fruit behind. This is perfectly balanced, not trying to be what it isn’t, with a lovely energy of fruit behind. There is a light reductive nose which Mathis finds typical of this vineyard. Drink from 2025-2028. (89-91) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Beaune 1er cru Greves blanc
From vines planted 1999 in the middle part of this 1er cru. Fine delicate aromas also showing good intensity and depth on the palate. Very promising, give this time to unfurl.
Long rows of 4-500m shared with cousin Thomas Morey a mix of red and white, vines planted in 2001.
The chardonnay vines are at mid slope, which ripens early so the white Beaune Grèves has to be picked among the very first. Attractively perfumed, yet with quite a dainty touch on the palate, with an energy that emerges at the back, after the white fruit flesh, now followed by some tangerine notes. Enough acidity, though in style a wine which will come forward quite quickly. Drink from 2026-2032. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrées
From 3 parcels of vines 1960’s and early 1990’s old located in Le Chene, Les Masures and La Bergerie. Pure crystalline fruit showing great style and restraint with good generosity for AC level. Average is at least 40 years-old. New vines en-fermage in this vintage. Assembled all the lieu-dits this year, though all vinified separately.
The usual blend of Bergerie, Masures, Chênes though the last is now pulled out (161/49 rootstock). Pale colour and a little bit of spice. A little bit of ripe fruit up front, then quite a fierce acidity behind. Not quite in place today perhaps. Drink from 2025-2028. (88-90) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
From vines planted in the 1950’s located quite high on the slope at the northern end near Puligny. Lots of limestone in this vineyard and it shows with super fine aromatics and palate staining intensity of orchard fruits backed by a great line of acidity. Very long, very impressive. Near Philippe Colin’s vines, near the quarry. Older vines with millerandes.
More lemon than lime in colour. The nose is a little lighter than Les Vergers, but with refinement. This is very stylish on the palate with an excellent intensity of fresh white orchard fruit with a little sucrosity. The sunshine has been well harnessed. Delicious and perfectly balanced. Drink from 2027-2034. (91-94) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vergers
From vines planted early 1960’s and early 1970’s in this well sited 1er cru located on the Puligny side of the village just above Chenevottes and below Les Chaumees. Another new parcel in 2016, actually two parcels. Vines predominantly 50-60 years old with a small younger plantation
Made from 50-60 year old vines, small bunches, small leaves, hardly need to trim them. Millerand throughout. A clear pale colour, with a significant concentration of white fruit on the palate. Not the most demonstrative but there is good intensity, juicy and good acidity too, but above all there is this intensity of white fruit. Do not be in a hurry for this. Drink from 2027-2035.
(91-94) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains
From vines planted 2009 located in the middle of this vineyard just below Caillerets south of the village. More clay and less stones have helped these younger vines in the warm years. This the fifth year with a longer (vs the villages) elevage like the other 1ers.
Low yield at 30-35 instead of 50-55 hl/ha, due to a little bit of 161/49 damage. Lovely pale lemon with a green tint. The bouquet is pleasingly elegant as well, then a little bacon fat arrives. Interesting texture, a fine-grained tannin supporting some quality white fruit. Medium plus length, altogether an attractive wine. Slightly riper aftertaste. Drink from 2027-2034. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
From 3 parcels with average 45 yo located from bottom to top of the vineyard. Always one of the best 1er cru’s. Very complete.
Caroline Morey’s rows run from top to bottom of the Caillerets slope. A light green tint, fresh and enticing. Precision rather than strictness, with energy but there is a wealth of quality white fruit, with some floral aspects too, lingering nicely on the palate. Racy but ripe apples spread out at the finish. Drink from 2027-2036. (92-95) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
From a few rows of vines located towards the bottom of this tiny Grand cru vineyard and the next two rows below Carolines holding are owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy. This holding came from purchasing an old estate based in Santenay which also had this tiny holding of Grand cru. Very pure with discrete power and length. A wine of great freshness and dimension. Wants time.
A delightful pale primrose colour. Toasty notes, a little bit reductive, but appealing and with considerable power behind. In fact, the intensity creeps up on you at the back of the palate. The 2022 Criots tastes beautiful even at this early stage. Open but with plenty in reserve, and very long. Extremely fine. Drink from 2027-2038.
(94-97) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023